I use the Gmail app. The only annoying thing there is that you can't set the lock screen notifications not to show a preview of the incoming mail.

You can still set Gmail up as an Exchange account if you use a paid version of Google Apps with a custom domain name. Google has only disabled it for free accounts.

There are a lot of people out there who have come up with super convoluted ways to keep push Gmail, but it's not worth it to me. For example, they set the Gmail account to manually fetch, then have Gmail forward every incoming message to their iCloud mail, which does support push.

The official Gmail app is very nice and lets you do things (archive/delete/easily move messages/work with labels/etc) that you can't do in the stock mail app.