Most of the projects have been razed and rebuilt. The places that produced Master P, Juvenile, etc no longer exist.
Do not go to the lower 9th etc alone or at night or without being in a vehicle. The crime story here can't be told by statistics, it is very localized to these neighborhoods, which means those neighborhoods generate 90% of the crime. Treme isn't as romantic as HBO may portray it (stopped watching it because I thought it was terrible).
That parade is a local favorite so it is a good one to see. Frenchmen street is a good suggestion, but also make your way Uptown and Midcity. Have fun.