The South American Altiplano - Exploring Arequipa - continued
Like many large cities in Latin America, the Plaza de Armas in Arequipa is a primary gathering point for the community. Almost all buildings surrounding the square are composed of sillar, and the vivid white facade of the long archways really stand out, especially on a clear sunny day. This is a great place to relax with a drink, people watch, and just soak in the lively atmosphere.
On the north end of the plaza stands a massive cathedral aptly named La Catedral, with two towers soaring above everything else in the vicinity. The cavernous interior is certainly a sight to behold. There are intricate statues, exquisitely carved flourishes on the arched ceiling, and an impressive pipe organ located at the rear of the main hall.
Plaza de Armas
Archways composed of sillar
La Catedral
La Catedral interior
Less than half a block away from Plaza de Armas is the Museo Santuarios Andinos, famous for an exhibit showcasing the frozen mummies that were discovered on Mount Ampato some 60 miles northwest of Arequipa. The most famous of which, Juanita, caused a sensation in the scientific world when she was found in September 1995.
To maintain her well-preserved condition, Juanita is only on display annually between the months of May and November. Other mummies are rotated in throughout the remainder of the year. Unfortunately, I visited in April, and was not able to see Juanita. However, the other specimen in the exhibit was just as fascinating, and the museum itself has an extraordinary collection of ancient Incan artifacts retrieved from the same location. No pictures are allowed inside.
Museo Santuarios Andinos
Extending from the Plaza de Armas is a pedestrian street named Calle Mercaderes that is lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops. This four-block car-free zone is quite popular with tourists and locals alike, especially during weekends, and I found it to be the perfect place for a quick bite to eat. On the Sunday that I was there, a large holy procession made its way down the street, along with hundreds of curious onlookers.
Holy procession
Calle Mercaderes at night
In addition to La Catedral, there are a number of Catholic churches located all over Arequipa. These are often some of the most ornate and well-maintained buildings from the colonial period, and many are worth taking a look inside. One of my favorites was Iglesia de San Francisco, located approximately three blocks north of Plaza de Armas.
While the interior was elegant as expected, what I really enjoyed was the large tree-lined square in front of the church. This part of town was noticeably quieter, and I spent a good amount of time here reading and listening to music on my last day in South America. Behind the church building in a narrow alleyway is a small artesanal market selling all types of handicrafts and jewelry.
Iglesia de San Agustín
Iglesia de San Francisco
Plaza San Francisco
While I'm no foodie by any stretch of the imagination, I did want to celebrate the end of my journey by splurging a little and sampling a nicer restaurant in Arequipa. Within the past decade, Peru has raced to the forefront of a South American gastronomical revolution, redefining haute cuisine by fusing traditional mestizo recipes with international influences.
Looking online, I found a highly rated restaurant called Zingaro just half a block south of Plaza San Francisco. The space was beautifully decorated inside, and the sillar walls and arched ceilings were purposefully left in a rough state, recalling the old colonial architecture seen throughout the city.
Zingaro Restaurant
Of course, I started the meal off with a refreshing Pisco Sour, the national drink of both Peru and Chile. Wanting to stick to more traditional recipes, I decided to order perhaps the most famous Arequipeño dish of all, the Rocoto Relleno, as an appetizer. This is essentially a large stuffed pepper served with potato pie, all covered in melted cheese. For the main course, I went with another local favorite, Chupe de Camarones, a hearty soup overflowing with rice, vegetables, and river shrimps. Both were absolutely delicious! Surprisingly, the entire meal cost under $35 USD including tip, which is fairly reasonable by American standards.
Pisco Sour
Rocoto Relleno
Chupe de Camarones
Taking a stroll around Arequipa at dusk afforded some stunning colors in the skyline. At times, it felt like I was staring at a painting, with the deep shades of lavender and violet blending into the Chachani volcano in the background. Since my flight to Lima was scheduled to depart at 9:50 pm, I had plenty of time to linger around Plaza de Armas before heading back to Hostal Las Torres de Ugarte and hailing a taxi for the airport.
Plaza de Armas at dusk
Calle Simón Bolívar and Chachani