"It's horribly difficult to seriously change the way you look through exercise
alone."
I think the last word of that quote from the article is key. You can't exercise your way around gluttony. You can, however, increase your caloric intake without gaining weight, with the right amount of exercise.
For me, if I want a steak dinner, it's 40 minutes on the elliptical and a walk to "earn" it.
And I know what you mean about the wine....