June 15-19

As we reached Perth, I suddenly felt an incredible urge to experience open spaces again, as my life & wanderings had been bounded by rectangles for the last few days.

We arrived at the East Perth Terminal. Luggage collection was, as mentioned, a breeze, and I opted to take a taxi ($11) to my lodgings. I had chosen a private ensuite at The Emperor's Crown. This was my first time at a hostel (I'm rather more decadent), so I was very curious. I had chosen this option as Perth hotel prices are, quite frankly, exorbitant. $300 p/n for a room at a Mercure in winter is stratospheric for that calibre of hotel. Even Brisbane's Mercure only charges a rate like that for the State of Origin game on June 26th. $200 seemed to buy you a hotel that was, from the tripadvisor reviews, a dirty Days Inn (or similar budget property).

Ultimately, I paid $120 per night for a clean room with a double bed 3 minutes walk to the city. I'd guesstimate the room to be 25 sq meters, so it is also a decent size. And this is what Perth considers budget. (A bed in the dorm is $36 per night)

On check-in, I was helped by a friendly, if taciturn young man who sorted me out. My room is basic, but spotlessly clean. The alarm clock seems simple, the fridge is an ample 3ft high, TV (never used), and there's a remarkably quiet, yet effective air conditioner. The only feature which distinguishes it from the Mercure in Sydney is the lack of a telephone and simply florescent fixture on the ceiling vs more "upmarket" sconce lighting at the Mercure.

A load of laundry costs $4 to wash and $2 to dry. I have no idea what coin operated laundry prices are like generally, but $6 per load beats $7 to wash a pair of boxer shorts or $5 per socks. Plus I can type my reports while I wash.

Day 1:

Arrival & Check-in

Lunch:

I had read that there is a Nobu in Perth, one of the sister locations of Nobu's more famous NYC location. I eagerly headed to its location at the Crown Metropol casino-hotel for my first non-train lunch. So excited!!!!

And my God...it was stultifyingly mediocre. I ordered tempura prawns in creamy spice sauce, a tuna roll, a negi hama (yellowtail scallion) roll, and a prawn tempura roll. With a $16 Hitachino's Nest white ale, my bill came to $85 or so. I would have happily overlooked the price if there were any special presentation and overall quality. The prawns in both the roll and the tempura were excellent. However, the "creamy spicy sauce" was decidedly underwhelming, the tuna was "two day old fresh," and the rice in the prawn tempura roll had that "too old" beginning-to-dry-out mouth-feel. The yellowtail's quality was fine, but it wasn't terrifically flavourful to warrant $7 let alone $14.

After this crushing defeat, I retreated back to the city and went to the Myer. I hoped a bit of retail therapy would help, and I needed a pair or two of shorts for my upcoming trip to Darwin (tomorrow). Given the discounting at the Myer and its sister store David Jones, the Myer was a total zoo. The Ralph Lauren area looked as if it had been subjected to bombardment or Attila's horde. I became exasperated and left.

Dinner salvaged the day with a cheap and cheerful Cantonese BBQ. Char Siu pork can fix anything.

Day 2

With 20 degree highs, I donned a sleeveless shirt and shorts (someone fetch Yahilwe's smelling salts) and went to Cottesloe beach. On this day, the expansive distance covered by my train hit me as I took a dip in the Indian Ocean. I reflected on how much more "real" the travel had felt as landscapes slowly transitioned, and I finally arrived at a new place. Much different, I thought, than my upcoming BNE-HKG flight would be where I sit for a few hours, watch The Simpsons, sip champagne, and when I land, "ethnic" food suddenly becomes average.

The Indian Ocean



I mistook him for a pigeon!

The beach was magnificent. I loved capping both sides of the continent with a wee dip. The water was a bit rougher here, but I managed.

I put my rugby shorts on over my trunks (Paul Smith from Harrods on some cheap-as post-Christmas price, maybe £25 vs $80 on sale down under). I head home sandy, but happy.

I now sit down to a short take-home test for my International Political Economy (IPE) class. I finish one of the three questions, then head out for dinner at a Chinese restaurant Yu at the casino. I had brought my passport, as I felt like enjoying myself afterwards.

Dinner was fine and markedly cheaper than lunch at Nobu, even with a cocktail and a beer.


This cocktail, called "Silk" was delicious. It was a combination of Belvedere, mango liqueur, and sugar syrup.

Now to earn back dinner at the casino. $25 is soon wasted at the slot machines. $50 buys me 10 chips for the $5 blackjack table. For an hour, I hover at $45-55. One of my fellow players would not shut up. She blew $70, and failing to score at the table, soon began trying with the youngest/most handsome man at the table. For once, I was happy NOT to be a looker in spite of my relative youth.

Eventually, I hit a string of bad luck and am down to $25. Knowing that this was the end, I figured I'd hasten my demise with betting on "perfect pairs" (being dealt two of the same cards). On the second such bet, it paid off with a pair of identical kings. Hello 30-1 payout of $150. Having set that aside, I planned to gamble away my remaining $25. I get two more pairs (unmatched colours) and earn another $25 for each. I leave the table with $200 in winnings and a $2.50 souvenir chip. At the roulette wheel, I throw $50 on red and win a further $50. I decide to depart before the odds catch up with me cash out. This was a good day. A top class mark on an IPE essay and gambling winnings will do that.

Day 3

I trot off to the Perth Mint for some coin buying and a tour. Before that, I finished my take-home exam, turning it in 20 minutes before due. Brinkmanship at its finest, I do say.



A bad shot of the mint.

The tour was interesting but limited. The highlight was the gold pouring, when refined molten gold was...poured. The shopping was more interesting. I went to the bullion dealing window and enquired after some silver lunar coins. As a coin collector, being at the Perth mint gave me the rare opportunity to acquire the coveted Chinese Lunar New Year coins at bullion pricing (which has dropped precipitously, as any good gold bug or Ron Paul supporter could tell you). I purchased a 1/2 oz 2013 Year of the Snake (my year) coin, as well as a 5 oz 2012 Year of the Dragon. This is the second cycle. The first cycle began in 1999 covering all animals. In the first cycle, the Year of the Dragon is quite coveted and can fetch a remarkable premium (400%) over melt. I was thrilled to get the 2012 for melt. With only 31k (similar to the series I issue) struck, it will appreciate.

Afterwards, I had an overpriced $9 schooner, followed by an OK sushi dinner.

I went to the Canterbury of New Zealand shop and picked up some shorts and a pair of track pants for loafing about. God, I have come to love rugby shorts. Being an American, I originally thought shorts of such length were the sole province of Europeans and gays on summer holidays. Boy, do those two groups have it right. And Aussies.

Day 4:

It occurred to me that the days of eating and drinking on the IP did my waistline ZERO good. Also, I've been lazy and neglectful. Unfortunately, I left my running shoes in the US, and had to buy at Aussie prices or lay around till I got to HK. I opted to get the Vibram Five Fingers. I trotted off to David Jones for some sundries such as appropriate underwear (my boxer shorts are useless for running) and a shirt. Fortunately, being under the same ownership, they are running the same sale as the Myer, meaning the prices are indentical on shared inventory, despite David Jones being the decidedly more upmarket store. Many, many brands are stocked in common. However, DJ is much more civilised. The Ralph Lauren section was still tidy without the hordes of shoppers. The upmarket image must scare off the horde. Oh wells. More for me. I saunter over to the underthings. I always feel like a "sLUT fare" in this section looking at far more attractive men splay their stuff. Calvin Klein is a whopping $60 per pair for trunks (boxer briefs ride up and briefs = just no), but fortunately the clearance sale kicked in giving a 50% discount. I find what I want in a suitably boring black (no one will see them anyway) and find a beater ADIDAS (I hate wearing branding, but it will do) shirt in a pleasant crimson, surrender the AMEX, and leave.

I decide to embark upon a running tour. After changing at home, I head down south past Perth Station making straight for the river. I turn left and run east along the river, passing the major brand hotels such as a Crowne Plaza. Perth is quite scenic! I eventually find a park and wander into Heirisson island and met some of the local kangaroos!

After returning, I had dinner at a Japanese restaurant called Bonsai in Northbridge. It's really a fusion restaurant that pairs traditional Japanese with more creative ingredients. Normally, interpretive Japanese fails (with me) or, in Oz, is loaded with mayo in an effort to appeal to the lowest common denominator of Caucasian diner. This worked. The seared/aburi salmon nigiri was only just kissed with flame for a split second (so mostly raw) and had a drop of a delicious sweet miso sauce on top. The salmon meat itself was intrinsically excellent, while six pieces priced in rather reasonably at $15. The cajun squid followed. This was a decent, large cut squid cooked with spices and a caramel soy sauce. The result with a rich, smoky BBQ flavour with a hint of spiciness. Finally, tempura prawns with green tea salt and tentsuyu/tempura sauce followed. A pleasant ending.

Edit: Perth was a fascinating city. It's quite expensive, but remains a sight. I'm amazed at the consumption that goes on, as well as the juxtaposition of luxury stores (boutiques selling $9,000 Italian feather quill pens) next to internet cafes full of tradies/backpackers or a sex shop or strip club. I realise these combinations exist in all cities, but the close proximity seems unique to Perth.

Now I need to fetch my laundry. I have an early flight tomorrow and packing to do! Let's see how 3.5 hours in J on a QF 738 goes!