Kalgoorlie was reached at 2am, and I was not awake. My sleep that final (Friday) night was quite pleasant, for a change. I rose, showered, and dressed before proceeding to breakfast. I dined with a retired sugar planter who had dwelt near Airlie Beach. He opted for the cooked English (this was available every day), while I chose the Florentine eggs served with smoked salmon. They were amazing. I've never had eggs as well-prepared as on the Indian Pacific. Most breakfasts I've attended have featured the usual poached/scrambled/fried, while I will avoid elaborate preparations at breakfast places which don't seem to possess the required calibre.

After packing my things (5 minutes~), I went to the lounge car, as I had little else to do, and we were still 3 hours out of Perth. I chatted with a Singaporean lady who teaches critical/liberal studies at the Hwa Chong Institution. Like me, she studied in the UK for her undergrad. She attended York, I, St Andrews. Then she did her Master's in Sydney, whilst I am working at mine in BNE. As the two most over-educated individuals on the train, there was a natural bond. (More on this later)

As we were late (arrival time at noon vs 9am), the crew brought out hors d'oeuvres of kangaroo meat pies and curry puffs. Mimosas followed. Their peace offering was acceptable.

Upon arrival, we were off the train immediately after stopping. I realise that this may sound obvious, but I equate long distance travel with "stop, disarm doors, wait for jet bridge, they fumble, wait to deplane." To stop, and be off within 45 seconds was a new thing for me.

On the platform, pax congregated around plat, gold, and red baggage. Yes, a trolley for plat/gold baggage came first, and my own was on it! Huzzah! Great Southern has accomplished what BA has not! (QF, CX, TG have been excellent, OTOH)

In reflection:

Food: Consistently and repeatedly excellent. The food is well prepared and offers variety whilst staying within Western/Australian cuisine. Fortunately, a variety of spices and sauces accompany to keep the food from turning into something that one makes at home. Some of the pax were grumbling about "too spicy" or otherwise being too adventurous. $*&@ that!

Booze:

Service: Again, superb. Omnipresent and helpful, despite living with their charges for 4 days/3 nights.

Pax: Socialisation is something of a must, short of hiring a $16k+ private carriage. The average is 70, without exaggeration. You know the climate is old when then 50-somethings are trading down to me, the 23 year old! Overall, most of them were a hoot.

I did feel awkward when after half a beer, I was suddenly trustworthy/chummy enough to have all of their racial viewpoints unloaded upon me. Oh. Dear. God. Coming from a family of inveterate racists, I am used to putting on the Stepford Smile and nodding when I am enduring another Christmas or election at home, but I am on my freakin' holiday! I was warned to keep my distance from the "abos" in Alice Springs. Further, I received lectures on the dangers of boat people (approx 8,000 per year, according to my research). I also heard tales of the imminent danger of a conquering horde sweeping down from Indonesia. My new friend from Singapore and I were...strained to say the least.

However, most were a bunch of sweet, grandmotherly/fatherly people who were happy that a young person could converse with them. Once the age barrier was overcome and the effects of the open bar felt, some raucousness could ensue. One particular dinner was fantastic. It was just an accident of 4 likeminded people who sat together. I haven't laughed like that in the past decade. Many jokes were made at the expense of inheritance, ex-spouses, and other such topics. Then we were chatting with out waitress about pax, different service levels, demographics, etc. She said something to the effect that many of the platinum pax (the $6k cabin) had saved up for what might be their last trip. Well my my. We had a field day with that one.

Interestingly, the crowd was surprisingly blue collar. Many on board were retired (and well travelled, I might add) farmers, soldiers, housewives, etc. This was surprising for a holiday that costs $3k per couple + flights+hotels+incidentals etc. And many were going on a 14 day cruise Perth-SYD via DRW and CNS. I would have expected more professionals for the $$$ demanded. I should quit my degree and shovel cow crap, if this is the way Oz works.

Now, I will go get lunch, and when I get back, I will tell you all about Perth.