robyng, thanks for your thoughtful and detailed response. On reflection, we've decided not to try and push for reservations that first night, although that's my actual birthday. We'll do dinners the next two nights we're there and make one of them the "official" birthday dinner I'm leaning toward a kaiseki-style meal for that dinner, as I really want the experience as well as the food. Perhaps Kikunoi or Mutsukari or Tofuya Ukai - I'm really drawn to the setting there, and think it would be very nice at night. Maybe tempura for the second night out.

We have breakfast at the Pen included in our rate, so I think we'll stick with that in the mornings.

Thanks for the reminder about the department store food halls. May hit them up for 'portable' lunches and/or snacks.

I'm hopeful that past experience (HKG this year and last) will hold and we'll not be too affected by jet lag. Both trips to HKG we hit the ground running. Helps that I sleep really well on planes for some reason.

Thanks again for your insights.