Chariva, who has been on staff at Amanpuri since the opening

At The Surin, which shares otherwise private Pansea Beach with the Amanpuri –and shares an architect and designer in Ed Tuttle too – you can order bargain chilled coconuts, gin and tonics and pina coladas from the local women who have enterprisingly set up a ramshackle bar a short stroll from the hotel's striking, dark-tiled hexagonal pool.

The Surin was refurbished last year, its villas lightened up with pale greys and metallics, and some very chic Californian 1950s interior touches introduced into the bright amber library and dining areas, all set into the cliff that overlooks the pool and beach. This is one of the most enjoyable and attractive hotels I've been to in years.

The best food I had on the island was...at...dirt-cheap place...But the seafood at The Surin is a knockout: I had steamed white fish with lime and garlic just about every night on Phuket, and the very best I had was at The Surin.