Sorry to revive a two year old thread but I've been contemplating a trip to the island for awhile...

My understanding was that Sakhalin was some type of a border zone and a special visa or permit was required (unless you're remaining within the city limits of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk). I've found conflicting information in different travel guides, Wikivoyage now claims that a permit is not needed (unless you're visiting the Kuril Islands which are disputed with Japan) but expect a passport check on domestic arrivals and have the purpose of your visit, address on the island and onward travel information written out in Russian ahead of time. Another (printed) guide says you need a permit ahead of time and unless you've been invited by a business or on a guided tour your chance of getting one is next to nil.

Are there any non-Russian FT'ers who have been to Sakhalin recently and can maybe shed some light on this?