Here are photo highlights of my 3 days in Easter Island. I spent 3 nights at Kaimana Inn, you can read my TripAdvisor review and see some photos here:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...er_Island.html. After getting settled, I wandered around town to get a lay of the land.
Main street (Atamu Tekana) of Hanga Roa
I continued exploring on foot until after dusk and saw my first Moai near the beach and north of town. I was surprised to see so many wild dogs -- almost all of which were friendly.
Ahu Tahai at dusk
I had a late dinner of ceviche, which with a water was around 14,000 CLP (1 USD = 470 CLP). The quality was good and the portion was huge.
I had two full days on the island and rented a bike both days from Aventura. The cost was 10,000 CLP (around USD 21) per day and the bike was in good working condition. The (attractive!) ladies who worked there were very helpful. They also rent 4-wheel ATVs and small jeeps. Seeing the island by bike enabled me to explore the natural beauty on my own, at my own pace, to breathe in the fresh air, and stumble upon unmarked or unsigned objects and views. Of course, one has to be in at least decent physical shape to do this.
I left town around 10:30am the first full day. The ride went south heading out of town, then east past the airport. There was a gradual incline until reaching a turn-off from the main road, Camino Costero. Before the turn-off was the only place where a dog gave me trouble, at first barking at me and then chasing me as I rode faster and faster. Fortunately, I could out-pace him. Once turning onto Camino Costero (a sign showed that Rano Raraku was 14 km away) the road went downhill, gradually at first but then at quite a steep decline for a while. The roads on the first day were all paved and in vary good condition (unlike those the next day), but they were wet from recent rain. The rest of the road followed the beautiful shoreline.
Coastline near Hanga Poukura
There are many Moai along the southern coast, although many of them have been tipped over.
Ahu Ura Uranga Te Mahina
Unmarked Moai
My sturdy bike for 2 days
I took this photo and later realized that it was of the rock from which the Moai had been carved.
Ranu Raraku Quarry from a distance
I had been on my bike about 3 hours before I approached the entrance to the Quarry. After a short uphill climb, I reached the entrance and was surprised to see the small parking lot filled with about 25 cars, vans, and mini-buses. I obviously arrived at a popular time (early afternoon). Here is the only place in which my pass to the Rapa Nui National Park was checked. It was an expensive pass (60 USD) but of course well worth it. It was raining lightly most of the time I explored the Quarry, which was my favorite part of the entire trip.
Favorite photo from the Quarry
Quarry showing where Moai were made
Quarry with numerous Moai
View of Ahu Tongariki from Quarry
From the Quarry was a short (10 minute) walk to the volcano crater. Few people ventured here, I'm not sure why since it was an easy walk and was quite scenic.
Ranu Rakaku volcano crater filled with water
There were several additional Moai on the backside of the Quarry, but there were signs indicating not to enter a path that led to them. I doubled-back, got a drink at the small cafe at the park entrance, then rode downhill to the famous line of Moai. It was late afternoon and the weather was perfect.
Ahu Tongariki
After spending about 30 minutes there, it was getting late and I had around an 18-km ride back. The ride back was good despite occasional light rain and some light headwinds. Unlike the other direction, I only made a few brief stops. I chose to walk my bike up the rather steep hill near the end of Camino Costero. Once near the road to the airport, I took a shortcut into town, which was about 3 km and all downhill. It was a rewarding way to finish a long day on the bike. I returned to the Inn before dusk and later had a very good dinner of pan-fried fish served on top of a large portion of sweet potato mash.
The plan for my second full day was to explore the west side of the island. Maps indicate that the road that heads north from town is a "main graveled" road, so I expected it to be in fairly good condition. I took the road that I thought was correct, but after 5 minutes it was in such poor condition I thought I took the wrong road. Signs are scarce so one either has to have a very good map (which I didn't) or find people for directions. I doubled-back and took a paved road that headed north. However, I reached a dead end after 20 minutes and found someone who told me that the initial road I had been on was correct (it went past the museum). I got back on the correct "main graveled" road that had lots of small rocks, shallow and deep potholes, and other obstacles that required constant attention so as not to flatten a tire. There were also some rather step hills, so my pace the whole morning was necessarily quite slow. Again, I found the coastline absolutely beautiful.
Coastline near Ana Kaharga
This part of the island was much less traveled, especially the areas along the west coast. I finally saw other bikers, perhaps 5 in total that day. I also ran across friendly people walking from site to site as well as a handful of tourists with small jeeps. There were a lot of caves in this area that used to be inhabited.
One of many caves in and near Sector Ana Te Pahu
Some more slow biking and I finally got to one of my destinations. This had quite a few tourists but I was able to get some good photos without people in them.
Anu Akivi
It was now early afternoon and I thought I'd take a hike to the top of the tallest volcano, Rano Aroi. I initially chose the wrong path, which after 15 minutes led to a dead end. I re-traced my steps and found the path entrance was south of Anu Akivi. Only walking or horse-back riding is allowed, so I locked my bike to a post and began the trek. It was a slow but steady uphill climb that took about 1 hour 15 minutes at a fairly steady pace. I figure it was about a 5-km walk to the top. I was followed by between one and four wild dogs the whole time, just hoping that they weren't too hungry. Along the way, they harassed some wild horses, which I had seen other dogs do earlier in the day.
One of many carcasses and bone piles encountered during trip
Wild horses wander the island; here, along walk to volcano apex
One of many hawks along walk to volcano
I encountered only a few small groups of people the entire hike up. It was fun to periodically look at the views as I ascended. The trail was never marked so one didn't know how much further it was until the apex. Quite tired, I reached the top and the views were rewarding.
Rano Ario volcano, view from top at 511 meters
The walk downhill was of course much quicker and easier, probably 45 minutes long. I then rode on a paved road back into town, which felt great for my legs and sore bum. I was back into town in about 40 minutes, again before dusk.
I found that the natural beauty of the island was at least as impressive as the Moai. I didn't read much about the island in advance and never had a tour guide, which is how I like to "discover" places on my own. I am sure tour guides would have told interesting stories and relayed entertaining history, but for me, the benefits of independence and self discovery outweigh the sacrifices of not having a guide and making a few wrong turns.