In 1992 we made our first trip to Angkor. The country had only just opened up after the Vietnamese invasion and I doubt if there were more than 50 tourists at the entire Angkor site. Some temples were off limits due to land mines and the whole place seemed perched between war and peace. The people were still in shock over the whole Khmer Rouge nightmare. It was an experience I'll never forget.

Anyway, our trip was arranged by A&K. We stayed at the Apsara Villas, one of the residences of Prince Sihanouk. There were about 12 rooms, fairly run down but certainly habitable. The pool hadn't been used in years and had rain water, rubbish and a dead snake in it. Meals of any kind were unobtainable so we went over the road to the Grand Hotel d'Angkor. This once palatial hotel - the Raffles of Cambodia - was seriously derelict. No rooms were available but they did have a restaurant - so this is where we went for breakfasts and amazing dinners, such as coq au vin served in sweltering heat which we ate with Chateauneuf du Pape. About $10.

Nowadays, the Grand Hotel is indeed a Raffles-owned place, quite exotic and full of tour groups. And the Apsara Villas is Amansara, perhaps the best Amanresort we have visited. It's true it doesn't look 'Cambodian,' but that almost Streamline Moderne look has its own authenticity. The circular restaurant is simply stunning. We might quibble about the rooms (we really dislike having bathtubs in the bedroom) but overall this place is the only place to stay in Angkor. It may seem expensive but don't forget the rates include room, breakfast, lunch, dinner, bar drinks and personalised sight-seeing trips. I'd could easily do another week here.