We just visited east bali (Amankila) and that part of Bali is still "old traditional bali). Very green and quiet with small traditional villages. We went on trekking and witnessed temple ceremonies without seeing a single tourist. But also if you like places that are more developed bali has a lot to offer and villages that offer a good combination of tourism and local culture. Much better than how I experienced such places in other parts of se Asia (koh samui for example). Yes bali has changed, but it is still wonderful and my favourite island!