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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 9:54 am
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stut
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What to say about Amiens?

If you take the city as a whole, it's a mixed bag. It suffered heavily in both world wars, and it's obvious which areas have been rebuilt. Some work well, others less so. The main shopping area (around Rue des Trois Cailloux) is pleasant, old-fashioned and well arranged. The station square is the work of concrete enthusiast Auguste Perret, and you'll either appreciate its architectural merits, or loathe it.

But that's not why you go to Amiens. As you head down towards the cathedral, the buildings get older, and you catch a glimpse of it through the streets. And then you end up at the Parvis, and get to see it in its full glory - a wonderfully gothic building, that really looms above you. It's definitely the centre of the town.

If you head down to the river from there, you get to the Quartier St Leu, which is mostly on the other side (although there's some pleasant bits around the Place du Don. Once you get over to the Quai Bélu, you are in the old town proper. When I lived here, there was little over the river apart from the Lune des Pirates bar, but now there's all sorts of places to eat and drink on the quay. The surrounding, canal-bound streets have all been restored too, and it's an interesting place to wander around.

Then you've got the Hortillonages - the floating market gardens (and the floating market if you're up early in the morning - that's on the quayside here). There are guided tours, and self-drive boats for hire (at least in the warmer months) - it used to be something that you could get from the Quai Bélu too, but no idea if that's still the case. They're great - green and luscious, and a lovely relaxing way to spend a couple of hours. The Somme can be a little rough, though, if you're in a small rowing boat! We were told stories of giant rats living in the gardens but - rodents of an unusual size, I don't believe they exist.

Other points of note are Jules Verne's house and the Circus (a permanent circus building, down on the southern edge of the old city walls). Also, the belfry and covered market.

It's an interesting place. Parts very pretty, and parts very much not so. But it was a very good place to live - great sense of community, and great local food.

There are loads and loads of good places to eat, and lots of hearty local food. I always used to enjoy Le T'chiot Zinc (informal brasserie), Au Relais des Orfevres and Les Marissons, but I expect things have moved on since then!
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