Nov 19, 2012
Flight: Yangon, Myanmar to Bagan, Myanmar (NYU), Yangon Airways, ATR72, economy
Hotel: Aung Mingalar, $28/single
A very early wakeup this morning at 4AM to catch the 6AM flight to Bagan. The taxi left at 4:30 AM and we were at the airport before 5AM. The domestic airport is the old international terminal and is right next to the new international terminal. There were no lines and I checked in for my flight for Yangon Airways. They gave me a sticker to put on my shirt. I was glad I was early as the waiting area started getting fuller and fuller... soon the departures area is packed with tourists. There are at least 5-6 flights that all depart within a few minutes of each other. There was a cafe selling dimsum for cheap which I ate for breakfast. As boarding time approached, agents walked around the area holding a signboard stating the flight that was boarding. It was all quite chaotic. I managed to make it onto the right bus. The flight on Yangon Airways was on an ATR-72. I was happy my seat said 2A until I remembered that the ATR boards from the rear... we ended up actually departing a few minutes early. I didn't see any extra security or cargo planes for Obamas visit, as he was supposed to arrive in Yangon today, but maybe he was using a different (military) airport. As we were taxiing to the runway I saw the Qatar flight landing.


Chaos at RGN domestic terminal

Boarding sign

Yangon Airways ATR72

The flight lasted a bit over an hour and they served a box of pastries and soda during the flight. The flight was fine with no problems. I had a window seat on the left side, which gave a great view out over the plains near Bagan on approach. I could see temples afar in the distance. When we landed there were already a few other planes on the tarmac and were all unloading. We were bussed to the terminal, where the chaos began. The area was swarming with tourists and there wasn't a baggage belt, just a room where they dumped luggage. As planes continued to land and disgorge more tourists, it got pretty crazy. It seems that those tourists on package trips got priority with the baggage... the handlers kept going out to the carts and just picking some bags off and leaving others. It took nearly 20 minutes before the cart with my bag on it even showed up, then another 10-15 minutes while the handlers picked through the bags, with mine just sitting on the ground. I was tempted to just go outside and pick it up. There were a few other independent tourists there also waiting on their bags.


Inflight meal


Yangon Airways ATR72


Bagan Airport

Tourists must pay a $10 fee for the Bagan area, you must present the ticket at all temples but it is good for a week. Usually this fee is paid at the airport on arrival or at the boat dock when arriving from Mandalay. Walking outside I met a taxi driver who said 5000 ($6) to take me to my hotel. A bit pricey as it really wasn't that far. Along the way he asked if I needed a taxi for the day for $40. I figured having a car would allow me to be efficient and visit more temples. I agreed if it included the price from the airport (he agreed). He took me to the Aung Mingalar hotel which was actually in the town of Nyaung U (where the airport is) rather than New Bagan or Old Bagan. I had to take off my shoes to go into reception, put them on to go to the room, then take them off again to go in the room.. this would get tiring. The room was very dark, with wood paneling. This had obviously been added after the room was built as the paneling now covered half of the doorknob, very odd!

Aung Mingalar room

I dumped my bags and we headed off just across the street to the Shwezigon Paya. The anniversary of the pagoda was approaching and vendors were in the process of setting up stalls outside for the monthlong celebration. The way into the pagoda complex was a long gallery lined with trinket souvenir sellers... tourism has indeed taken over Bagan. The pagoda was definitely impressive, another golden stupa in the center although not as large as Shwedagon, it gleamed in the morning sun. When I came out of the pagoda, there was another guy there saying he was my taxi driver. I'd heard this before but did verify that it was the brother of the original guy. Instead of an airconditioned sedan though we were now in a minivan.

Shwezigon Pagoda, Bagan

Afterwards we headed off to one of the first temples. There are over 3000 remaining temples, stupas and Buddhist relgious sites in Bagan, mostly built nearly a thousand years ago during the Kingdom of Pagan. At its height there were over 10000 sites. The remaining ones are differening styles but all built from local sandstone. You have to remove your shoes when entering each temple... and most floors are just brick and rough concrete, ouch. My feet would definitely be sore by the end of the day. Most of the temples close to the road ended up having souvenir stalls all around, and the vendors were pretty persistent. I give you good price, come and look at my shop, etc... the same words I have heard at tourist sites everywhere. I immediately tune all that out and refuse to look at whatever it is they are selling.. although it did look like some of the stuff here was better quality than the usual tourist junk. Most of them were waving around George Orwell's book, 'Burmese Days'

In one temple one of the vendors was less pushy.. she showed me around the temple, let me climb up on the roof for a large look around. Some of the passageways were really narrow and difficult for me to fit through with my shoulders. Also my feet were killing me as I had to do all this barefoot. The view was stunning from up top though, with deep red sandstone temples visible everywhere around. The vendor had some pretty nice paintings so I did end up buying some from her. Originally she wanted 18000k each ($21), I asked for 25000k for two and she agreed. She then tried to take it back and asked for 2000 more!! Sorry I'd already paid The advantage of having the private taxi meant I was able to keep ahead of most of the tour buses, some temples were totally isolated and I was the only one there. I'd already forgotten which temple was which by this point. Wetki-in-Gubyaungi, Hhilominlo, Buledi, Sulamani, Dhammayangyi (largest temple), missed one or two in there. Most temples had a similar design, internal alcoves with Buddhas at the cardinal points.






It was lunchtime by now and I'd been sweating all morning. We stopped at a place called Golden Myanmar for lunch... buffet style Burmese. The food was excellent, fish and lamb curries with lots of tiny dishes (Bean sprouts, chili paste, etc). All for only 3000 ($3.50) it was a great deal. My driver Jo-jo said that everyone takes a siesta in the afternoons. It was quite toasty and I was pretty worn out so I went back to the hotel for a few hours.

Rinse and repeat that afternoon, visiting another 5-6 temples (Ananda, Bupaya, Manuha) before arriving at the Shwesandaw temple for sunset viewing. It was a complete zoo here with a dozen or more tourist buses, cars and horse carts. The horse carts are very expensive though, $70 for a day from what I heard! By comparison $40 for the car was a great deal. The Shwesandaw temple gives a great view out to the eastern temples.. at sunset these are lit up a deep red. Unfortunately it was cloudy today and not likely there would be an impressive sunset. There were 4 levels of very steep steps (15 inches high), luckily there were handrails to pull up. Most of the tourists here were French or German. I climbed up to the top and hung around awhile before climbing back down, which was trickier!

The internet wasn't working at my hotel that night so I went to a place next door that had italian food and (barely) functional wifi.


Myanmar TV showing Obama's visit