Sometimes a Times restaurant critic will try and make his or her mark by doing something memorable such as when one made Masa the first non-French restaurant to get four stars. But Pete Wells has written what to me is the most scathing review of a New York food establishment I have ever read.

In

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Restaurant Review: Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar in Times Square

he so eviscerates Guy Fieri's establishment that it recalls the lambasting Mimi Sheraton once gave to Régine's when she even carved up the coat check room.

Guy's is rated no stars and "Poor."

This is a representative paragraph. You really have to read the whole thing.