At the top of the hill, 183m above sea level, stand a couple of imposing buildings containing the restaurant and other public areas. These evoke, just a little preposterously, the Parthenon as the Greek-born Italian artist Giorgio di Chirico might have painted it. Indeed, the whole site conjures a style you might call neo-neoclassical, with its colonnades of not-quite Doric columns – 566 of them – and acres of pale marble. They’re certainly striking but redolent not so much of the Enkoimeterion and amphitheatre at Epidaurus (45 minutes away by car), the Treasury of Atreus at Mycenae or the Temple of Hera at Argos (both about an hour’s drive) as of the fascist interpretations of classicism you find in Rome, though on a less aggrandising scale.