I'm envious of you for pursing you adventures beyond Kashi. Since I showed up 2 days after my friends, they had already been up and back by the time we connected (I don't they got as far as you, but they told me the lakes were really nice). Next time I go out there, my plan is to make it all the way Karachi, and fly back in comfort. By time I make it, I'll be in serious need of food that I like, but that's all part of the game.
Speaking of food, John's Cafe is a pretty clever business because they sell items that we can tolerate (basic American fare; okay quality), and have set up shops at many of the logical stopping points. Eating local is a must; the thing is "lamb overload" is a serious problem; balance it with a club sandwich, and you'll be content at the very least.