Second to last paragraph in my logistics post. Booked a place on elong.net. I stayed at a place in Pengfeng Village called the "Green Youth Inn" (or "Greenfield" Youth Hostel). Took a chance since info on the internet looked decent, and it's only been open a year-ish...so how downhill could it have gone! It's in the congested part of Pengfeng that has a bunch of alleys going off the main road, but after 11 pm it's quiet and I appreciated not being right on the main highway. I got a "deluxe" twin (two bed) room #213 in the adjacent building, and I think one of the nicest. Very clean (including the carpet), decent size room for one or two people, great air con self-controlled, decent bathroom with good 24/7 hot water and good pressure and no stinky drain smells. Shower was one of those non-enclosed areas, but in my bathroom it was in the corner, had good drainage so didn't wet the rest of the room down. Also hand held shower and rainshower. Supposedly free wifi in room, but I used my 3G dongle when I needed internet. RMB 268 per night (no brkfst), but in off season I'm sure it goes down. I gambled but knew that if the place was not up to snuff, my early afternoon arrival would afford plenty of time to walk down the street and find something else. It's high season in JZG but not totally packed out, there were plenty of vacancies in most places still. (ETA, looks like I got lucky with timing, just checked them right now and their rates have increased to RMB 368 for this week and later, when they have space) :-O

Eating places in Pengfeng:

1) First afternoon for late lunch I tried a local Chinese place in Pengfeng with tablecloths and all that. They were pretty unfriendly and acknowledged then ignored me. Got up and walked out. Ended up in a more downmarket diner-type noodle joint that was pretty good. (There are a bunch of grubby ones, so you need to be selective.) And cheap.

2) The first evening, I ate at Star Cafe behind the Sheraton. Like being next to the little river, but the food was overpriced and not too good. I think this is a place that typical in China, gets a good name and then goes downhill. Along the river but closer to the park, are piles of little restaurants that put tables out by the waterside...most of them were probably much better...but I think few with English menus.

3) Second day was in the park so no formal lunch. Ridiculous prices at Nuorilang Tourist Center sit-down restaurants....and I suspect the food isn't all that great since the audience is captive and they are mass-feeding. Physical exercise kills my appetite for awhile, so I was OK taking a couple of power bars, crackers, chocolate along in my pack, then getting a cheap snack of things on a stick (hot dog thing, corn). Pot noodles are available also.

4) Second evening I tried a different Chinese restaurant with the tablecloths and all that. Same chilly reception, despite speaking Chinese to them. What is going on in this town? It's not like these restaurants had lines out the door, they really seem to not want to deal with foreigners. So I got up and walked out, and went to a Tibetan restaurant that's roughly in the middle of Pengfeng West, on the second floor. They often have a staff member outside and downstairs working to drum up business. It was outstanding food, though on the pricey side but generous portions. I spent RMB 120 for two dishes + beer and it was enough for two people--couldn't finish it all. COLD beer, good service and some English speakers on staff, too. (Staff is primarily Tibetan, not Han). Probably best place to eat in the village...I seem to have misplaced their business card but will try to find later.

Bottom Line: Jiuzhaigou is just not a gastronomique's place. Most restaurants are barely trying. They do have some good holes-in-the-wall with great snacks and stuff, so my advice is not to waste your money (except at the Tibetan restaurant) and just stay mostly downmarket....you'll do just as well. And Chinese restaurants with diner-style and no tablecloths are friendlier than the places that look spiffier and more upmarket, at least to foreigners.