Many people have asked questions about taking the bus in Mexico. Is it safe? Is it reliable? Is it even half-comfortable? Well, it depends!
There are still the "chicken busses" ("bus pollo" de segunda clase) like the intertown many stops that stop at every stick in the road, and can be waved down anywhere on the route. They are often packed (seats are not only not assigned, they may have more than one person per seat), have roof racks with livestock crates, baggage, backpacks and even on occaison a person or two. Unless you are adventurous, tolerant and can even stand the idea of maybe getting some lice or scabies from a seatmate (I have!

) don't even go there. These can still be found in Guatemala and Honduras and are generally recycled US school busses held together with lots of layers of paint and chrome accessories.
But for many, the intercity luxury busses can be the way to go - I've personally used ADO, Estrella de Oro, Cristobal Colon, Estrella de Oro, Estrella Roja, Autobuses Pulman de Morelos, etc. etc. A recent poster on FT asked about cheap flights to Cancún or Mérida, and with a cheap flight to CUN (hardly existent to MID) I recommended going to CUN and taking the ADO First Class bus to Mérida (in four hours for USD $35)
here. You want Clase Primera / First, De Lujo / Luxury, Ejecutiva / Executive, Plus or the like as your class of service, for reliability, time, on time departure and safety. Primera
is likely to have have lavatories, the classes better than Primera
will, often one for men and one for women; Primera and higher will provide some snacks and soft drinks, often from an attendant. There is video entertainment ranging from several screens with cabin-wide sound to individual video screens. And, of interest to FTers, some have points accumulation schemes! Busses may be Volvo, Mercedes Benz, Saab Scania, M.A.N., Irizar and the like - top makes, mostly European.
Mexican first class bus services can range from those similar to US domestic First - 34" - 38" seat pitch, two to a side - to reclining "Z" seats with leg rests in a 2 + 1 configuration with pillows, blankets, ear plugs and eye shades and an attendant that will fetch you coffee, snacks, soft drinks, etc. I'd still take an eye mask and good ear plugs for the shoot-em-up overhead screen videos on some busses. Nearly (if not) all are air conditioned and have a restroom, the drivers are top notch and well trained, and many are continuously monitored by GPS recording and monitoring to the central offices. Speed or fool around and get fired, because this is a much-desired and fairly prestigious job in Mexico, kind of like a pilot's job might be in the US.
TER / Estrella Roja Volvo 7550 seats, wardrobe, lavs and galley - cafeteria
They run on time and many have websites where you may even be able to purchase tickets in advance. Baggage gets checked in and placed in the belly pans, and you get baggage checks to use on arrival. When you buy tickets, you get assigned seats - see below for tips. Non-express busses usually make short stops for breaks (and expensive snacks), as well as longer (45') stops for meal times - through Express busses make very limited stops. Bus stop food may vary from really nasty to OK but overpriced.
Some of the most luxurious services - ADO Platino, for example, offer VIP waiting lounges. I have used several of these companies - ADO, Cristobal Colón, Estrella Blanca, Estrella de Oro and ETN among them, and do not hesitate to use or recommend them.
Here's a
link to a useful page (by differentworld.com) that has links to most of the major bus companies, annotated to provide language and other relevant information.
And another
link to a page from mexicoguru.com
Many Mexican bus company websites rely on technocrap - Flash or other enhancements that may not run well on your browser, and often in Spanish. You may try purchasing tickets, and if you can navigate and do so, they'll be reliable (tickets are reliable, but you will find more than your share of horribly clunky websites with plug ins that probably won't run, is not optimized for, may be crashy or just plain won't load.) Most Mexicans purchase in person or by sending someone to the station with a day or so of departure; this will not work at high seasons - I had to stand from Mazatlán to Tecate half the day and half the night and finally got to sit Tecate to Tijuana, crossing to San Diego and flying to Sacramento getting to a suddenly available job interview - I did get the job.)
My early rides were on Estrella de Oro four axle "Sultana Imperial" to ACA
by Grupo Industrial Ramirez (Trailers Monterrey) in the early 1960's
SEATING TIPS (NOTE: No smoking busses)
OK, there is no "AsientosGuru", the seating varies a lot on various bus lines and configurations and it's very difficult to find information. But essentially:
When purchasing tickets at the bus station, ask to see a seat chart (
mapa de asientos would work, as would
lista de asientos when there is no actual chart, or even
gráfico de asientos. Note that in Mexico the word
"asiento" is used, and not
"butaca" as in Spain, unless you are going to the movies or theatre.) The ticket agents usually have them, though because this takes a bit more time they may be loath to show them - and at least they will have a list with the seat numbers of assigned passengers. I would select - as do most Mexicans - seats toward the front or center of the bus.
Seats at the back of the bus can be too close to the lavs - which smell a lot like the blue fluid in some portable lavs, sweetly sickening, plus whatever has been deposited in them. As well, they are subject to more motion, and noise from passengers slamming lav doors or chatting at the self-service fridges.
Estrella Roja del Sur Volvo 9700 mid-haul service bus interior
- note seats, drop down video screens and small overhead stowage
BAGGAGE TIPS:
There is generally not a limit on baggage, and it usually is checked in like on an airline. You will get ticket stubs (hold on to them, they may demand them at your destination) and load them into weatherproof lockers in the belly of the bus.
Carry-on baggage is generally not limited, but there's not much place to store it. Overhead lockers are generally smaller than on most aircraft, and in some cases might hold what a regional jet has - the kind a large bag must be valet-checked on. A 22" rollaboard would be checked in. I've never had baggage pilfered or stolen, er, "lost", but personally, I always secure my checked in bags with zip ties or locks, and do not pack valuables in my checked bags.
SCHEDULES, TICKETS and INFORMATION
- AICM busses and land transport from Mexico City Airport to local and near cities Puebla, Cuernavaca, etc.
- TICKETBUS Sells tickets on a number of upscale bus lines
- Horarios y Tarifas de Autobuses contains several bus company sechules, mostly ADO-related, and shows Mexico City TAPO, Norte and Taxqueña bus stations on a Google map ^
- MAXIBUSES Blog with a lot of photos of bus line exteriors, interiors
MEXICAN BUS COMPANIES
- ADO and UNO (preferred site) Mexico City to Yucatán peninsula, southeast and northeast to US border at Matamoros / Brownsville, TX and Cd. Reynosa / Hidalgo, TX
- ADO GL (English and Spanish, as ADO but "gran lujo")
- Altamar (and Costeños) Mexico City to Oaxaca coast, south
- Bamba Experience hop on - hop off / pass type transport for backpacking tourists in Mexico, Central and South America using other lines, shuttles.
- Caminante - TMT Mexico City and Toluca
- Estrella de Oro Mexico City to Cuernavaca, Taxco, Acapulco and Zihuatanejo
- Estrella Roja / TER Mexico City and airport - Puebla
- ETN Mexico City and the mid-north west Guadalajara, Pto. Vallarta
- Estrella Blanca several actual brands to the north, inc. Tijuana (U S border): Futura Plus is the only premium line; they operate some "Primera" and "Económica" servives.
- Grupo Pullman de Morelos serves Morelos (Cuernavaca especially) with frequent express and very comfortable services) from Mexico City Taxqueña and the international airport.
- La Linea west Mexico destinations in the states of Queretaro, Guanajuato, Jalisco, Michoacán, Colima
- Omnibuses Cristobal Colón mainly the south including Oaxaca and to the Guatemalan border and TicaBus to Guatemala, El Salvador, Honruas, Nicarahua, Costa Rica and Panamá
- Omnibús de México mostly central, west and north Mexico
- Parhikuni mid-west coast and interior - see map (English version)
- Primera Plus Mexico City to San Miguel Allende, Michaocan destinations, Melaque, Manzanillo, etc. west
- Vallarta Plus coastal north of Pto. Vallarta (Guayabitos, Bucerias, etc.) and Guadalajara
CENTRAL AMERICAN BUS COMPANIES- Expreso Panamá - connects Panamá City and San José, Costa Rica
- Hedman Alas connects Gautemala and Honduras (not El Salvadór)
- King Quality Premium service connects El Salvadór, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica
- Pullmantur is not a Mexican bus at all - it connects Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras with a comfortable service.
- TicaBus Not technically a Mexican bus, it connects Tapachula, Mexico to Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panamá
TYPICAL TIMES AND PRICES (July 2012, US Dollars, rate USD 1.00 = MXN 13.33)
- Cancún - Mérida 4 hrs ($22 ADO, $27 ADO GL, $37 ADO Platino)
- Mexico City Airport or Taxqueña - Cuernavaca or Puebla - ~2 hours ($9.00 - 12.00 single)
- Mexico City - Guadalajara - 6 hrs ($40 plus)
- Mexico City - Acapulco - 5 hours ($33 ejecutivo or $45 lujo)
- Mexico - Cancún - ~24 hours ($114 ADO - 134 ADO GL single)
- Mexico City - Oaxaca - 6 hrs ($35.50 ADO, $43 ADO GL, $61 ADO Platino)
- Mexico City - Puerto Vallarta - 11 hrs ($75 primera plus)
- Mexico City - Tijuana (U S / San Ysidro, Calif. border near San Diego) - 16 hrs ($126 Elite line, primera / first)
- Mexico City - Tapachula (Guatemala border and TicaBus) - 16-18 hrs, cheapest slower $82 OCC, $94 ADO GL, $118 ADO Platino)
- Mexico City - Matamoros (U S / Brownsville, Texas Border) - 18 hrs ($80 ADO)
Central American bus companies include Hedman Alas, Pullmantur, Ticabus, King Quality and Expresso Panama.
Central America's TicaBus is not luxurious, but is economical and moderately comfortable
SHUTTLES and PASSES
BAMBA Experience - passes for using local and long distance ground transport (e.g. Ahuevos Ways (Mexico City - Costa Rica) Price: € 1,019
WAYAK - uses Toyota HiAce vans , connects Mexico City, southern tourist destinations and Queretaro and San Miguel Allende
ADO Primera (First)
with Internet aboard
MEXICO CITY BUS HUBS / STATIONS
As many will be connecting or taking their bus in Mexico City, it's important to know that
Mexico City has four main bus terminals - Norte, TAPO, Observatorio and Taxqueña / Sur. It's important to find out which station serves your destination - some few serve their main station and TAPO but you may have to change busses in some cases - others stop at their primary station first, with limited busses on to TAPO.
TAPO / Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente at the San Lázaro Metro station: this bad boy is the 500 pound gorilla of bus stations with about 10,000 people using this place per day (as many as 220,000 during Semana Santa high holiday period). Most important destinations served for visitors include Acapulco*, Cancún, Huatulco, Mérida, Oaxaca, Puebla, Tapachula (for the Guatemala border and Ticabus connections) Tehuacan, Tuxtla Gutierrez and Villahermosa. TAPO offers nine bus companies - including Autobuses del Oriente (ADO), ADO GL and ADO Platino, Estrella de Oro, Estrella Roja, Omnibus Cristobal Colón. (*Some services here are connectors to other stations, such as Taxqueña, with occasional busses - you may be better off going to Acapulco, say, straight from Taxqueña / Sur.)
TAPO is a very large domed open space with ticket counters in one area, as well as a food court and some businesses. There is an underground taxi rank for legitimate taxis; do not use "pirate" taxis, as this can even lead to harm in some cases (they drive off, make an unscheduled stop, pick up accomplices and bang, you are robbed.) It's in a not-so-great neighborhood, some some petty crime is possible in the neighborhood. Keep alert here and accept no help from anyone not clearly identified as a bus company employee or in an official capacity. Don't go for a walk between bus rides - there has been a lot of human trafficking in the area.
Observatorio / Terminal Central de Autobuses del Poniente is near the Observatorio Metro line 1 station. There are 15 bus lines here, the ones of primary interest in this thread being those serving Toluca, Valle de Bravo, Ixtapan de la Sal, Queretaro, Morelia, Pátzcuaro, Guadalajara and secondarily Taxco, Acapulco and Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo (I'd rather go from Taxqueña myself), using Omnibús de México, La Linea, and Primera Plus.
Taxqueña / Terminal Central de Autobuses del Sur AKA Central Camionera del Sur at the Tasqueña (sic) Metro station and light rail station. Mostly service to west and southwest, especially Cuernavaca, Taxco, Acapulco, Iztapa - Zihuatanejo, Puerto Escondido, Huatulco and Puebla. Eleven lines here, those of particular interest would include Turistar Ejecutivo, Autobuses del Oriente / ADO / ADO GL, Omnibus Cristobal Colón, Grupo Pullman de Morelos and Estrella de Oro.
Norte / Terminal Central de Autobuses del Norte is in the north area of the City and is on the Metro line #5 from the airport (Autobuses del Norte station) and serves, naturally enough, a heavy concentration on the north, including Toluca, Querétaro, San Luis Potosi, Guadalajara, Chihuahua, Culiacan, Hermosillo, Durango, Nuevo Laredo, Tepic, Mexicali, Monterrey, Tijuana, but also Veracruz, Acapulco, Morelia, Tampico, Guanajuato,Ixtapa Zihuatanejo, Manzanillo, Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán and even Oaxaca.
31 companies serve Norte include ADO, ADO GL and ADO Platino, Estrella Blanca, ETN, La Línea, Omnibus de México, Primera Plus, TAP, Transportes del Norte, Transportes Norte de Sonora, / TNS, Turistar Ejecutivo and Vía Plus.
There is also
Aeropuerto AICM (airport) serving Terminals 1 and 2 (see schedule and costs
here (English)), with destinations to:
- Celaya, Guanajuato
- Córdoba, Veracruz
- Cuernavaca, Morelos
- Orizaba, Veracruz
- Pachuca, Hidalgo
- Puebla, Puebla
- Querétaro, Queretaro
- San Juan del Rio, Queretaro
- Toluca, Estado de México
- Tulancingo, Hidalgo
Autobuses Expreso Futura "Primera" Mercedes-Benz Marcopolo MP120
BASIC VOCABULARY
Hint: Latins are more formal and courteous; curtness and abruptness unfortunately indicate disrespect or an implication one is of a higher social class than that of the person being addressed. Be courteous and you will probably get better service. Start with a "Buenos días" or "Buenas tardes" when approaching a ticket agent, and adding "gracias" after, for example. These folks get a lot of attitude from local "DYKWIAs" and the way they strike back is indirectly - issuing a bad seat, pretending they do not understand, etc.
Baggage: Maleta(s) - muh-LET-uh(s)
Bus: In Mexico many call it "el camión", but in most other countries that means truck; autobús is understood.
Destination: Destino (dess-TEA-know)
Direct: directo (dee-WRECK-toe)
Fast: Rápido (RAH=pee-dough)
Express: er, exprés, pronounced the same as in English
I need help / assistance: necesito ayuda (nay-cess-EE-toe ah-YOU-duh) anything from help to assistance with baggage
Lavatory: baño (BAH-nee-oh) or sanitario (son-ee-TAR-yoh) (in Mexico it's commonly baño though it means bath s.s.)
Luxury: lujo / de lujo (day LOO-hoe)
Nonstop: sin escalas (seen ess-KULL-las)
Ticket: Boleto = bow-LET-toe; pl. boletos. "Un boleto en (class) a (destination) por favor".
How much is it / does it cost to... ?: cuanto es a... (kwan-toe ess ah...)
What time does it depart? ¿A que hora sale? (uh kay ORR-uh SAHlay?)
What time does it arrive? ¿A que hora llega? (uh kay ORR-uh YAY-guh?)
more to come...
N.B. Information here courtesy a variety of sources, blogs, personal experiences, digging for websites, etc. Some information may be out of date by the time you read this. Your experiences will add a lot! Questions are directed to the membership; I am not a frequent poster here, though I will drop in on occasion. ¡Saludos!
--- More to come---