As a devoted "Fishaholic", I agree. CRS is a good example of wild Pacific salmon, but as RRW posts, the often neglected virtues of fresh Spring Chinook in season are hard to surpass.

Less spectacular in size and hue (but then, those wiley Chileans can make farmed Steelhead trout "orange" with enough Annato in the fish food) and although "Size is important", the variety of methods of preparation possible with small "whole" Chinook livens up our menus.

I suppose that it's a general comment on the disregard most of us 'Merkins have for fish is the tendency for US restaurants, especially chains, to believe that slathering/lathering with sweet Teriaki is the best way to present salmon, any salmon, along with what seems a commitment to over-cooking.

Of course, I remain confident that in Heaven, the salmon's always fresh and wild-caught, fileted, pan-broiled and served with little more than butter, Sauvignon Blanc, lemon and capers (for feast days it may be baked whole with herbs or poached in Court Bouillon). On the other hand, I recall a soup/stew with clams, white wine and fennel for which the chef deserved beatification, while my sophisticated Canadian friend maintains that Salmon Mousse is a trick for leftovers.