The deal was two dinners at Lisl and two at the rather
fancier Alpenrose am See (also a Lisl enterprise, in
the same building as the museum, which smacks of the
same management, with a Gasthaus (sign saying closed
for the season, please go to Lisl instead) on the
other side).
Alpenrose am See
The dining room is done up in IKEA - no attempt to
reconcile the oldness of the building and the newness of
the decor. Each table has a fancy printed menu and an
iPad wine list, ours with a screen greeting me by name.
A somewhat more polished set of waitstaff. We had a greeter
show us to table and then the divided attention of a couple
waitresses and one waiter, all of whom did a good job.
On being seated we were presented with an amuse - a slice of
roast beef rib cap, medium rare, with horseradish mayonnaise
and a couple micrograms of microgreens. The beef was of
course folded in the shape of a rose - very cute.
Rote Beete Carpaccio mit Lachsforellentartar oder
Fischsuppe mit Knoblauchcrostini
lili passed once I translated for her! I went with the
beets (red and yellow), which were quite delicious though
not so raw as carpaccio implies, and lake trout, which
was smoked (not so raw as tartare implies), cubed tiny,
and mixed with tiny cubes of vegetables and almond - a
kind of tour de force cum torture for the prep cooks.
Rosa Lammrucken auf Ratatouille und Kartoffelgratin - we
should have had one main for two: each serving was three
over-3-ounce lengths of lamb tenderloin that had been
rolled in herbs, mostly rosemary, and then roasted
medium-rare to medium; the ratatouille was made of tiny
minced vegetables including too much red and yellow
capsicum. The potato gratin consisted of 4 squares per
plate, 1 1/2 oz each, two mushy and pale, two brown and
hard around the edges. Ah, well, nobody is perfect.
'09 Le Volte was much softer than I expected from my
experience elsewhere with the '08. It was still a very
worthy glass, with notes of anise and cinnamon and a bit of
that Italian animally quality, very good with the quite mild
lamb.
Erdbeer-Birnen Strudel mit Kokos und Tonkabohneneis - we
asked for one dessert for two, itself a sizable helping
of slightly resilient pastry wrapped around strawberry and
apple filling, garnishes of redcurrants dipped in coconut
(rather strange) and a citrusy-vanillary ice cream that I
hope didn't have much tonka bean in it, as that is said to
be an anticoagulant, something I don't need. I'd give it a
solid B minus for both creativity and execution.
The food was on the whole quite good, but there was too much
of it, which we told our second server, a rather robust
young fellow, who grinned and said, we do like to give
large portions.
A pleasantly unsteady walk home.