No, not all gone, but you have to get off the standard tourist track. Article mentions Fayuan Si which I try to get people to go see, but without much response. Ditto for the area around the Lu Xun Museum--which in broader terms encompasses the adjacent district known as Xisi. This is near the Geological Museum, and Guangji Temple and has a hutong area of its own and lots of neat places to wander and get more flavor of traditional Beijing.

I have a whole treatise on "Beijing's Secondary Sights" which I developed over the last 18 months but decided not to bother putting it up, since nobody seems to be interested in seeing much beyond the Forbidden City/Tiananmen, Summer Palace, Tiantan, and the Silk Market.