This is the third of 3 trip reports, divided according to subject:
India 1: International flights: KLM, AF, DL Business
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...-business.html
India 2: Domestic flights: IndiGo (6E), Jet Konnect (9W)
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...onnect-9w.html
India 3: Aman India Journey (Rajasthan), and Taj Coromandel Chennai
This trip report will focus on our hotel stays with Aman and the Taj Coromandel Chennai.
The Aman India Journey:
Aman New Delhi
Amanbagh
Aman-i-Khas
We learned of the Aman India Journey when we stayed at Aman New Delhi last year. This was our introduction to the Aman brand, and was by far the best hotel experience we have had anywhere in the world. This, of course, sets high expectations for a repeat visit. All those expectations were met, with the added-value of a familiarity with the staff and our driver (same driver as last year) that made us feel like we live there. When you can be so far from home yet have that deep-down-inside-feeling of calm that you rarely get when away, that’s the art of hospitality.
Both times we stayed at Aman New Delhi, we thought we were the only ones staying there, but both times came to find out that the hotel was actually full. The staff-to-guest ratio is very high, and all levels of staff, from managers to maids, are so attentive, that it’s really impossible to worry about anything. Leave the room for 15 minutes, and the room is magically made-up and clean upon return. Have a chat with the server at breakfast about maybe visiting the spice-market today, and the driver has the car ready to go to the spice market when you walk back from breakfast. You think it, they just did it.
We stayed in their standard room, which is very large, with a seating area, desk area, large table and chairs, patio with private plunge-pool, and king bed. It is contemporary yet cozy, with a mix of stone, metal and wood elements. There is very ergonomic storage for luggage and clothes. Laundry service is inexpensive and excellent. Restaurant service is likewise inexpensive (compared to other high-end hotels) and excellent. For non-Aman guests, their restaurant has to be one of the best-kept secrets in New Delhi.
After learning last year about the Aman India Journey, where guests complete a circle-tour through Rajasthan, staying at all 3 Aman hotels (Aman New Delhi, Amanbagh and Aman-i-Khas), we decided to book it for this year. Arranged completely via email, the staff at Aman New Delhi put the whole itinerary together for us and arranged all the logistics.
After a couple days re-acquainting ourselves with Delhi (and the jet-lag), we headed by car to Amanbagh, near the Arvali Hills. The car trip usually includes a stop in Agra. Since we visited Agra last year and had a particular affinity for the holy city of Mathura (Lord Krishna’s birthplace), the Aman staff suggested a stop at Vrindavan, another nearby holy city (where Krishna grew up). Our driver guided us through some of the temples in Vrindavan, which was a truly amazing, culturally-rich experience. After a few more hours of mostly-bumpy roads (and some highways), we arrived at Amanbagh. Our suite was gorgeous, and we were informed a couple of massage therapists stayed around, in case we wanted massages after our long car trip. Whether they anticipated this, or whether the driver called the hotel and told them we were talking about massages, I don’t know.
The level of attention from hotel staff, expertise from guides, and quality of food, was on-par with Aman New Delhi, with the exception that the next-nearest hotel had to be quite far away. For being so remote, this was a truly amazing experience. The chef is particularly friendly, and we had a great time discussing cooking with him while walking together through his garden. We sadly did not have enough time to cook together in the kitchen with him. On paper, it looks like there is not too much to do here, but no amount of time is too much to spend here. The countryside provided some incredible hikes and photography, and we had a leopard-sighting at Sariska National Park.
We then headed onward to Aman-i-Khas, which is a complex of tents (which are nicer than my house), situated on the edge of Ranthambore National Park, one of India’s most famous tiger preserves. Accommodations are excellent, as is the food. Overall service, as has been reported by others, is very good, but not mind-blowing like the other Amans, where they seem to read your mind. We met up with friends and colleagues there, and the hotel staff did set up a wonderful outdoor dinner for us, fitting for us to celebrate our tiger-sighting in Ranthambore that day.
Travel between Aman-i-Khas and Delhi is by train, as the roads really aren’t amenable to doing this journey by car. There was some confusion with our train tickets, as we were planned to be in a first-class compartment, yet ended up being split up in second-class. After all the excellent Aman service (not to mention what was listed on our itinerary), being crunched-up in second-class for a 4-hour ride was definitely inconsistent with expectations. The Aman staff-member who accompanied us ultimately did get us a first-class compartment once the train stopped at Mathura, halfway back to Delhi. An email sent from my iPhone while onboard to the assistant-manager at Aman New Delhi (who had helped us plan the whole thing in the months before) led to a resolution with which we were happy, plus a promise to troubleshoot whatever happened. This sounded encouraging, though we were concerned to learn that our friends had the exact same experience on the same train ride, two days later. That said, I would definitely do the whole thing again, and definitely with Aman. I’d just advise clarifying the whole train-situation beforehand and following-up if things don’t go as promised. The Aman New Delhi staff handled the whole thing expertly and left me quite happy.
After a couple more fun days in Delhi (my favorite Indian city), being treated like rockstars by the Aman staff (and we’re not rockstars, just a couple of guys from Wisconsin), we sadly had to say farewell and move on.
Taj Coromandel Chennai
After staying at a place like Aman, it’s unfair to compare any other hotel company. That said, if staying in Chennai, the Taj Coromandel and its fantastic staff won’t disappoint. This was our second stay at the Taj, having had a similarly impressive experience last year.
Of note about this hotel, some floors are renovated, “new floors,” while others are kept in their traditional layout and decor, the “old floors.” Different customers have strong preferences one way or the other, but we definitely prefer the “new floors,” having tried both last year. The decor is contemporary but inviting, and the rooms seem much brighter and more open.
It’s nearly impossible to get to the check-in desk without an agent or manager greeting you in the lobby and escorting you to his/her desk for check-in. Our room choice was confirmed, and we were offered welcome drinks in the lobby-bar or in our room. Feeling the need for a prompt shower after our flight down from Delhi, we chose the latter. After a glass of lychee juice and a cool shower, the world was a much better place.
The room was contemporary, well-appointed and comfortable for the two of us and our luggage. The location is convenient for any downtown-based activity or business. Anise, their breakfast restaurant, is one of the most high-end breakfast buffets I’ve seen anywhere, and our server recognized us from last year. Their flagship restaurant, Southern Spice, which serves south Indian cuisine, was closed for renovation, but we have great memories of our experience there last year. We also dined one night at their Chinese restaurant, Golden Dragon, which was a fantastic, high-end experience, right down to the tea-sommelier, who will pair teas with each course.
The concierge desk is infinitely helpful, and their manager, who has been super-helpful to us personally, runs a very tight ship. I don’t think the word “no” is in their vocabulary.
We will definitely stay here again on our next visit to Chennai.
I’ll do my best to follow this thread every few days and answer questions. Also feel free to PM me.