Amandari - There is no wow factor in Amandari. Only genuine charm and a languid, pleasing ambiance, which begins to seep in after you've spent some time taking in what's around. This is one of the special Amans, like Amanjiwo and perhaps Amanjena (haven't been there), that have a very specific and consistent theme and feel - in this case, a Balinese village-y kind of setting. The property has aged beautifully, with a lot of moss, lichen and other greeny-fungal stuff covering the stone walls and passages, adding significantly to the aesthetic of the property. Here all those green lotus/lily ponds really look natural and atmospheric. The views out to the rice terraces from the main pool area and many of the rooms are pretty too, though they looked much nicer on Aman's website.

On the whole, the rooms are average. The bedroom area does have some interesting design features like the window behind the bed looking out to a manicured green area and the several panels with (I presume) Balinese art. The bathroom area is boring and unimaginative. We had pool suite # 14, which I recommend for the beautiful view as well as for its proximity to the main area of the property. I thought the one-floor suites were much better than the duplexes.

This property may not be worth it for people easily repulsed or scared by geckos, frogs and other bugs; they're all over the outdoor areas (and the occasional gecko inside the room). We had a biggish spider in our room once and a little snake just outside our room door.

Amandari delivers on some of the Aman staples - lovely tea, local snacks and drinks every evening by the pool and performances of Balinese dance in the main lobby area several times a week. One of the two evenings we were there, they'd put up a fairly elaborate 40-minute performance of several classical Balinese dances performed by (very cute) Balinese kids of several ages that learn and practice in Amandari.

The small spa is a really beautiful facility. An Amandari massage in one of the spa rooms open from one side to a lush green pond with fountain-like feature was blissful. The 2-hour trek in the Ayung valley is worth it too - lovely rice terraces, villages replete with ancient banyan trees and doe-eyed cows.

As was rumored, there is indeed magic to be felt in Amandari. When I visit Ubud again, I'll probably try out COMO Estate or FS Sayan, but book myself 2 nights at Amandari and not venture out.