Tasmania in first/second week of Sept
Flew Qantas from MEL to HBA. Rented Budget Car at airport. Did not like the attitude of the rental person...but you decide. DO consider renting a small car as most parking and roadways will remind you the mistake you made otherwise (oops for me). The rental car I received had lots of chips and a couple of gashes. Rent a wreck with a reliable engine and seating?
Our program was to tour the island and then spend some time in Hobart at the end. 10 days before we arrived there was a modest earthquake and a massive rainstorm that we were very glad to have avoided. The weather was very cold and snow was in the recent past and in our future!
First night we spent outside Hobart, in Glenorchy. We stayed at the BW Balmoral Motor Inn. I highly recommend it. Our room was large and comfortable. But the reason I recommend the place is the owner and the food! You can't believe how much help the owner was and the great food prepared for only two tables that night!! We selected this place to avoid going thru Hobart from the airport and to have a bit of a jump on the road to our next stop. We were a bit sorry that we did not stay there on our return. The Balmoral Motor Inn ( 61 3 6272 5833)is at 511 Booker Highway, a few blocks away from the Glenorchy Shopping Center, about 10 minutes out of Hobart. We had a Deluxe Quality room at a reat of A$82.50. Breakfast was not included in the rate, but was provided complimentry anyway. Get to know your local owners!
The highway to Strahan, our next motel had been closed for a week. A landslide in Queenstown had blocked the only road. We were lucky, that night the highway was opened to controlled traffic at 2100.
The drive to Strahan is a pleasant one. Tree line highways, flowering plants and snow peaked mountains (compliments of the storm). Lot of farms and modest homes, with a surprise mansion now and again. Our first stop was Lake St. Clair. A few bucks to visit but well worth the stop. They supply some options, as many areas are National Parklands and your can purchase various packages. The lake itself is large and cold. The shoreline we saw was pebbley to small rounded rocks (shoe box size). Food service is available. We passed. We received a map of included sites to visit along the road. We passed up this opportunity as we were a little antsy about the road remaining open in Queenstown.
Once near Queensland, the landscape changes. This mining area in nearly nude. While active mining is mostly a thing of the past, this area was left in very poor condition. The people still living there are mostly very poor, small trailer/tiny houses, stuck in the past people (sorry if I am offending anyone, it is just what we saw). The roadway was barely open, perhaps 10' wide. Nearing Strahan opened a new set of vistas.
Strahan is a small port town with a beautiful bay. We stayed at the Quality Suites Strahan village. Forget the name, as it is a conglomerant of several properties purchase by one group. Our room was fine, if not too expensive. It included breakfast, but we had to fight the hotel clerk in the AM and get our e-mail confirmation to prove it! I highly recommend the town, the views and the whole experience of the area, but I hesitate about the lodgings.
The Visitors Centre will give you free maps. They have a movie, West Coast Reflections, highly touted, but we passed ($4.50). We did get some wine from the bottle shop (in the hotel below, also owned by the same group). We were early to want dinner 16:30, so were sent to a area a couple miles away for fish and chips takeaway. Seedy looking little market with a food counter. FC in newspaper, plenty greasy and quite good. A few choice of fish that I never heard of, so we just go the one most asked for. Went good with the wine we selected. Dined in our room.
After checking out the next day, we went to see Macquire Harbour Lighhouse and Hells Gate. We did not find the latter.
The next stop on the way to Davenport was the Pioneer Village Museum in Burnie. A smallish indoor museum of "lookin" rooms that depicted the shops of the historic periods. An average stop. Remember this is an island of scenic beauty, not tourist stops.
Our next stop our hotel in Devonport. The Argocy Motor Inn, 221 Tarleton st. in E. Devonport. It was okay. We had fish and chips from the rest. across the highway and ate in our room...plenty of wine in the trunk to consume! We did have a good breakfast at the Argosy, a recommend place for breakfast.
The following morning we went to the Tiagarra Aboriginal Culture Centre. Again not a great attraction, but worthwhile for us. The area also has a park, some war memorials and sea views. A maritime museum is also available for touring. Housing in Devonport was much upgraded from what we had seen in Queenstown and in Strahan.
Passing up the Don River Railway and Museum, the Trowunna Wildlife Park (Mole Creek) and the Queen Vic. Mus.
Cataract Gorge was our next stop. Sorry we did not leave enough time for this one!!! Try to have 3 hours +. Access if on a chairlift, bridge or walkway. We chose the chairlift. I suggest one way on the lift, and the other on the bridge. The storm had really played havic with this beautiful "park". The land area cover is massive. Lots of hiking and trails into the hills. We saw several wallabys in the bush, although most people do not take the time to really look and wait for these opportunities.
Our final destination for the day was the Launceston Country Club Resort (Casino) to spend the night. We had a great pizza and some brew for dinner in a place (coowned) across the street. A free bus service is available. The room was nice, average size and had a view of the golf c. adjoining. Nothing special, but if you wanted to do some gambling, here is a chance.
The next day for targeted for Port Arthur, but with a lot of stopping on the way. Ross, an historic town was our first stop. Historic buildings abound.
The next stop was Richmond. A converted house lodges the wool museum. A 15 minute movie about the area is well worth a listen, as is a walk thru the museum. Donations. Bathrooms are available behind the City Hall. The Richmond Bridge is touted to be something, but it just looked old. The Richmond jail is well worth the time to see.
Our next stop was Safety Cove. We stayed in a B&B, something I seldom do. It was quite Okay. Heat was not enough. Bed average. View spectacular. Hosts great. AM breakfast good. Location great. The name of the B&B is Sea Change (web site). Go for it.
Port Arthur is known for the jail and history of the early days of Tassie. This huge place has many homes remaining/restored. The jail is much abused and is most other structures by fire and weather. This was a harsh place and a tough place to live. Most of the prisoners were there on minor offenses, sentenced to 7 years of labor in the new land. As long as they obeyed the rules they were fine. Violators were severly treated. Forced into a life of solitude and silence. Wearing a hood to church, remaining silent. The tour is a TWO day fee, so plan accordingly. We only stayed one night and could have filled a second day if we had planned a second day.
Yes the building were the crazy man killed so many is available for viewing. The site has a plack, reflecting pool and the skeleton of the building. Many of the park employees are those that were there they and were deeply impacted by the deaths of their friend and coworkers. The subject is not highlighted and is a bit touchy. It approached with respectfuliness, a pamphlet is available on the subject for your guide. A boat trip to Dead Island is available, as our tours on the island.
Next we returned to Hobart (where we landed but had yet to see). Lots to see and do in Hobart. Please bring warm clothes, gloves and a knit cap...its is cold, especially evenings and mornings.
Salmanca has a once a week street faire, with 4 blocks of vendors. Fun way to spend serveral hours and untold money. Nice park next block to sit and rest. The Maritime Museum was included in our stops this time. This is a good one for indoor viewing. Plan on 2-3 hours! The Van Diemen's Museum is a step back in time and well worth the 2 hours or so. Only open in the afternoon. Have a beer at Hogs Breath will awaiting your visit.
Antartic Adventure sounded too adventursome for we old folks (58), and way too cold, so we passed, but you might not want to. Ferry and boat rides are available. There is a art and history museum.
Oh, we stayed at Quest in town. The parking is unacceptable (mini cooper anyone?). Our room was large, but the heating was not. Look for somewhere else? The location was across from the harbor...nice for freezing walks, but great for food. The Fish Frenzy is highly recommended, but be prepared for crowds and louds.
The Botanical Gardens, a few miles out of Hobart are worth 5 hours! A hothouse. An Artic house. A desert house. Japanese garden. Pines of great variety. A veggie garden of note. A series of film clips on the gardens in the main building. Large grounds. Unrealistic flowers for this cold climate.
We also took a day to do the Huron Trail Senic drive. A long drive with lots to see. Our trip was cut short a bit by some snow at 1500 feet and we decide to return to town.
Tassie...well worth the effort.
Sorry about the many typos that probably are in this report but it takes me a very long time to do this and it is late and I am just not going to go back and read it to make the corrections.