I avoided posting on the humpback whale expedition because I wanted to cover all my flights without typing a complete novel.

Here is a brief summary:

The trip was from 5 August to 14 August on the liveaboard dive boat Naia ( http://www.naia.com.fj/tonga/index.html for more info and pictures), which provided an excellent platform for our trip. There were comfortable (but not luxurious) cabins, excellent food and an attentive crew.

Most of our voyage was spent around Ha'apai, and I agree that the islands are beautiful. The outward crossing was a little rough but I managed to sleep through most of it. We awoke to overcast skies and slightly rough water. The weather over the following days varied from clear skies and calm water (2 days) to overcast skies and rough water (1 day in particular) with a variety of combinations in between. Each morning we would search for whales and wait to see if they were willing to play. There is no point in chasing whales with other plans. Our ability to search for whales was hampered by rough seas; waves make excellent camouflage for whales breathing at the surface.

The snorkling was typically done from small boats, which could cruise slowly around waiting for curious (or indifferent whales). People could then slide slowly over the side and try to approach the whales. Chasing a whale while snorkling is an exercise in futility, and we relied on cooperative whales for our best encounters. These tended to be in shallow water, over reefs and calmer water was also best for snorkling.

The second day of the trip had perfect weather and we saw 25 whales from the Naia. We were able to have numerous attempts to swim with the whales but they were not that successful. The whales would approach within 30 feet and the water was reasonably clear, but the encounters were brief. I remember two younger whales swam directly underneath me (about 30 feet below) while I was just snorkling around trying to see where the other whales had gone. It became a repetitive process: approach slowly by boat, slide into the water, see what the whales do, get back in the boat and try for another approach. Nevertheless it was quite exciting to have the opportunity to swim with such magnificent creatures.
Most of the guests on board were also experienced SCUBA divers. During the intervals when whales were uncooperative or invisible we could dive on one of the reefs. Although not the best diving I have done, I found most of these enjoyable too. This activity also helped insure that we remained reasonably active and did not gain too much weight from the food served onboard.
Our final day onboard was definitely the highlight of the trip. It started slowly and really serves as a prime example of how quickly the situation can change. The morning was relatively calm but overcast and we were all getting a little depressed because the trip was ending and we had not had that one truly magical encounter. Just after lunch we were planning to visit a village on a nearby island when we saw some whales approacing the Naia. We had found a mother, calf and escort whale swimming in shallow water and willing to hang around!! Quickly about half the boat climbed into our wetsuits and entered the water from the stern. The whales swam around but the shifting seas made it difficult to keep up without the typical support craft. Some people did swim right up to the whales (within about 10 feet) but I was denied this opportunity. We reorganized in a skiff and followed the whales to a reef about 200 yards from the Naia. As we entered the water, most people swam slowly toward the whales but too of us took a parallel course. I could clearly see the escort whale about 40-50 feet away and 20 feet below the surface. Suddenly I felt a rush of water. I stopped swimming and started to look behind; the next thing I knew, the mother and calf cruised by within about 10 feet of me. They seemed to know exactly where I was, because they adroitly avoided running into me while I gaped at them. I started to follow them at a distance of about 20-25 feet. There was another rush of water and the escort humpback cruised by as well. These close encounters probably lasted no more than 30 seconds but they were the highlight of the trip. Soon afterward we ended the interaction because we could see clear indications that the whales wanted to go their own way.
This trip also confirms the rules of animal encounters I have learned on previous trips: 1) Plan a reasonably long trip. You can see everything in two or three days. 2) Weather is unpredictable, be ready with alternatives. 3) Be ready for anything, you never know when the most amazing encounter will occur.

[This message has been edited by JHL (edited 08-21-2002).]