peasant, that's the best trip report I've read in ages, and captures perfectly my own experience of Napoli.

I'll never forget pulling out of the car rental office in central Napoli (first time driving on the right for a few years) in a pristine white Fiat, into a cobblestoned street in which the traffic chaos brought to mind Dante's Inferno. Every single car was beaten and battered - except my rental, of course - and knowing that I would pay through the nose for any damage did make it a little nerve wracking. My favourite local habit was the way that where two lanes were marked on the road, the Neapolitan way was to ensure more efficient use of road space by actually driving as if there were 3! I found the best way was to take a deep breath, cross yourself, and just charge on in with bravado. I also found that wild hand gesticulations and singing opera at high volume helped me achieve the right mental state. A great city - but, as you pointed out, exhausting!

However, my vote for scariest taxi drivers goes not to Napoli (or even Sydney - don't get me started!) but Cairo - however, that's another story!