This is the thing - there are an awful lot of good eateries in London, of one description or another, but change is always with us, and particularly when it comes to this or that ever so slightly hidden, off the beaten track establishment, things often don't seem to stand still for long - the chefs change, the management changes, the ownership changes, the tablecloths change, or indeed everything changes. It's an organic, living business - great when you find somewhere amazing, just don't necessarily expect it to be around forever. That's where the old reliables come in - the masters of the art, they who've somehow managed to break free of the vicissitudinous cycle to offer a dependable constant...

Sorry, do please excuse the blathering red-faced old git in the corner, he means no ill-will to anyone... the moral of this story is, er... don't go to an Aberdeen Angus steakhouse... (Ed - will this do?)


P.S. Le Relais De Venise is good stuff - twenty minutes before doors open is the painless way of doing it - bit early, but no need for lunch.