Paying up front on the credit card does avoid the interest payment -- at least on my credit union Visa.

You are right about the "5 fees", but I was very careful to get a card:

1. Cash Advance Fee -- $0 for this card.
2. Exchange Rate fee -- see below
3. Foreign Exchange Surcharge -- it looks to me to be about 1% combined for the two (#2 and #3)-- just about what I would be changed with an ATM card.
4. Interest - 0-13% year, depending if I pay in advance. If I pay the card quickly, the money is still much less than the transaction fee from a money changer.
5. ATM fee -- normally not charged on American cards overseas (the reverse also works, European cards normally don't get charged a fee at American bank ATM's -- although they do at kiosk ATM's in places like the 7-11).

The advantage for me to use the credit card (which I never use for anything other than cash advances) is just accounting -- keeping a distinct tab.

Sorry, QuietLion, to hijack your wonderful travellogue -- please continue!