Back on topic (although maybe irrelevant at this point ) I rented with Europcar and got an old but perfectly serviceable car. It was a nice way to see the island, since as has been pointed out, it's not really geared for that as much as the luxury beach crowd.

I enjoyed my trips there but wouldn't rate it highly because it's an "in between" destination--better beaches and lodging are available elsewhere on the luxury end, and not enough other type exploration stuff to sustain my going back again and again. But everybody's going to have their own opinion...