I guess I have mixed feelings.
Would I pay $25 for a bottle of chuck? Probably not.
But in a nice restaurant, I don't find a $20 markup on a bottle to be outrageous. If I liked the wine, I don't think I'd be too upset to find it for $5 a glass in a nice restaurant.
It is however much better to get a $20 markup on a $50 bottle of wine
I was at an airport bar, and they had 4 or 5 different wines, and their price was $6 a glass for any of them. I recognized 1 to be a $7 bottle, and one to be a $20 bottle. I drank the latter