thanks for the replies. I've transited through NRT before but couldn't remember going through immigration. The last few visits the lines have been rather daunting but they do move pretty quickly. I don't drive anymore having lived in NYC for 30 years and don't dislike public tranport. I find Japan is particularly well equipped in that area but do get the impression that Okinawa is less so. It's pretty amazing how little info there seems to be about making a trip there. I'd like to go to Ishigaki to see iriomote (though I have heard about the habu hanging from the trees in the mangrove swamps). It looks beautiful. Does anyone have any suggestions for places to see or foods to eat ??