DAY 2

We were out of bed and on the road before the sun came up, headed north over the Million Dollar Highway. I was glad we had upgraded cars, because if not, with three passes over 10,000 ft elevation, we might still be there, foot on the floor, traversing that two-lane road. We picked this time of year in hopes of seeing some fall colors, but much to our disappointment, the aspens in the high elevation had already turned. We did, however, get to see something we didn’t expect- snow.

Our first stop was the small mining town of Silverton. At this point the sun was just starting to light up the mountain peaks. It was apparent that not much was happening here circa 7am, so we continued our journey. The next stretch of road was perhaps the most scenic and exciting mountain driving of the trip. We crossed the appropriately-named Red Mountain Pass (11,000 ft.+.), drove past some mines, and descended into a spectacular box-canyon, home to the little town of Ouray. Continuing north, we passed through Ridgeway, where we got our first panoramic view of the San Juan Mountains and encountered a menacing grizzly bear standing tall in the back of a 1-ton pickup truck. He looked so convincing, I had to do a double take to confirm that in reality it was a roadside advertisement for the local taxidermy shop.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is where we were headed next. As we approached the area, it didn’t seem all that scenic. My husband and I were like, “Where’s the park?” Spoiled by what we had seen earlier that morning, we weren’t all the impressed…until we got there. The canyon is deeper than it is wide, the walls far steeper than those of its rival The Grand Canyon.


Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Next we stopped long enough for another fast-food lunch at Chipotle in Grand Junction and picked up I-70 westbound towards Utah. We had initially planned to visit the Colorado National Monument, but decided to pass it up in the interest of time. After that we amended our trip-plan a second time, and decided to take a “shortcut” to Moab along the Colorado River Scenic Byway.

We swung by Arches National Park long enough to get another passport stamp.. We had explored the park thoroughly in 2004, and passed up this subsequent opportunity to in favor of continuing on up the road the Canyonlands‘ Island in the Sky district.

At this point I must digress for a second. What I am sharing next is somewhat-privileged information, and with the expectation that you will use your knowledge for good, not evil. Many archeological sites in the Southwest remain accessible to the public only as long as people respect them. Be cool. Pretend you are in a museum, like the kind where you are NOT ALLOWED TO TOUCH ANYTHING. Do this so that that future generations and even other people in this generation can continue to enjoy them. *end rant*


Canyonlands National Park

So, if you want to go to False Kiva there are a few things that you need to do. First of all, you have to find out about it. I did after years of staring at Peter Lik‘s photograph “Ancient Spirit”, and wondering where it was taken. With my only hint being Canyonlands National Park, I turned to Google unsuccessfully and finally had to consult a few photography books in order to come up with the location name. Next you have to go to see the ranger at the Island in the Sky Visitor Center, drop the name “False Kiva” and ask really nicely to see “the book”. He/she will unveil a small binder with instructions on how to get there and undoubtedly give you the same lecture that I just did.

After braving the cactus-filled dry wash we stumbled down the talus covered slope, mindful to steer well clear of the 1,000 drop into the abyss below. We turned a corner and there is was, nestled above in a small alcove at the base of a several-hundred-foot-tall sandstone cliff face. A short climb later we arrived at the site and found ourselves in the company of a very annoying little man, who insisted on offering us his unsolicited photo-taking tips. The dude would not shut up. For about 45 minutes we politely ignored him, assuming that he had really no idea what he was even talking about anyway. Not like we did either; I think I know more about rocket science and underwater basket weaving than I do the inner workings of my new Canon Digital Rebel Xti camera. The guy lost any and all remaining credibility when he made his exit just before the light got good, and thankfully we were left in peace to enjoy the of the moment undisturbed. We took a few good pictures, none of which came out looking anything like Peter Lik‘s, but that’s ok. It was an experience and one that I will remember for the rest of my life.

Right at sunset we conveniently found ourselves at the Grand View Point Overlook. At 1,000 above the rest of the Colorado Plateau, it became evident why this part of the park is called Island in the Sky. Below the Green River merges with the Colorado, and flows west in the same direction as the fading light.