I did the Bagan tour in 2007. I did not have a problem with touts or hawkers. At one or two temples there were children soliciting for lipstick, etc. There were very few people tourists or locals at any of the temples. Things may have changed since then. A local guide is indispensable. The guide can save you much time and ensure that you get good photos. We stayed at Kaday Aung Hotel which is not Gov't owned. We were happy with our hotel.