As part of my trip to Burma, I'm interested in visiting the temples at Bagan. I've read that it can be quite a circus with guides, touts etc offering to open temples (for a fee of course).

I'm really hoping to get some good photographs of the temples so any advice on how to get around (bearing in mind I will have a DSLR & probably a tripod) and a good place to photograph the sunset without having 100 of my new best friends next to me would be appreciated.

Also recommendations for non Government run hotels welcomed.

Thanks!