mosburger, thanks for the suggestions. I know there's a growing number of decent restaurants in Seoul but as of yet they are sadly exceptions to the rule.
BTW there's a place in Samcheongdong called 'a blacksmith's firebrick pizzera' that serves pretty good Neopolitan pizza. But the owner is cocky as hell and it's hard to get a table there, which is an encouraging sign that there is indeed a demand for good pizza among young Koreans.
Oh, and I think I'd actually be happier in Busan than in Seoul. At least in Busan there is an abundant supply of seafood. I'm willing to go on a diet that consists exclusively of gwang-eo sashimi and crab.