My expectations were very, very high for Amanjiwo. Slightly too high, as it turns out. The positives are already widely known: the astounding location with its view across the valley to Borobudur, the appeal of the design, the Aman ethos pervading. But this resort, more than any of the 5, was riddled with infelicities that just kept disrupting the sort of interrupted bliss that the world’s very best resorts provide. Whereas the other Indonesian Amans rely upon fresh flowers to scent the air, incense is burned, overwhelmingly, to my nose, in all the public areas, so that as soon as you step into the lobby, you’re stunned by the heavy and headachy scent of incense, which continues to greet you as you enter the library, where more sticks are burning, the bathrooms, and even the boutique. And while the gamelan players figure in the background during dinner at the other Amans in Indonesia, here they were outright intrusive, playing loudly during lunch and dinner, accompanied by a singer, and really getting under one’s skin in a way that made it difficult to think or converse.

The GM was away, and it showed, as the staff seemed less en pointe than at the other Amans, sometimes taking a long time to fulfill simple requests like a request for a bottle of water, and lacking the sort of warmth and attentiveness that the other Amans had spoiled us to expect. Half-way through our four-night stay, Amandari sent one of their assistant managers to help right the ship, and that did seem to help.

We were in Rooms #25 and #26, which are in the center of the front row facing Borobudur, and my sense is that the front row rooms really are preferable, so that your view isn’t interrupted at all by the other rooms. The rooms are just as they appear in the publicity stills, although the shower rooms are starting to get a bit tired, and some of the furniture looks a bit dated, but is in very good condition. We loved the design of the bathrooms, with separate vanities and closet areas at separate ends, giving plenty of individual space. The terrazzo floors are cracked (given the heavy earthquake rate in Indonesia—and we were awakened by a 5+ one our first night there), but that simply feels like a characteristic of a mature property, rather than something that detracts.

We loved the cultural experiences Amanjiwo cultivates—from the nightly lectures on Borobudur, Indonesia independence, or textiles—to the famed “Borobudur Sunrise.” That experience was so still and awe-inspiring that we actually did it twice, wanting to ensure we’d had ample time to savor the experience of being up among the stupas and sculptures during that magic hour. On the first morning, volcanic Merapi, which is the perfect stereotype of a volcano with its tall, sloping cone, was smoking vehemently in the distance, with the sun rising just to its right. (The guides say late June is the best sunrise of the year, since the sun rises right between Merapi’s slopes and another mountain.) The next morning we had a perfect sunrise with the full disk of the sun clearly visible. Aman staff lament the fact that now a larger number of hotels all get access to the site before dawn, whereas originally it was only Amanjiwo guests (how wonderful that would have been!). So there are 50+ folks on top for dawn, but it’s still a hushed, wonderful experience. Afterwards, we did Aman’s “Dagi Hill Breakfast,” which I strongly recommend, as the views toward Borobudur are very nice, watercolors are provided, the food is very good, and it’s a nice way to relax after the time spent on Borobudur.

We also did the excursion to Selogriyo, a small Hindu temple tucked up and within a large rice terraced valley. We enjoyed walking through the village, and then the beauty of the terraces as well. It’s not a “must do” excursion, but if you didn’t get your fill of rice terraces at Bali, this is a nice walk. I’d recommend doing it in the very early morning, when the light will be very nice.

The Mendut Temple meditation was also a good experience, since Aman arranges private access to this 8th century Buddhist temple after hours, and arranges pillows/mats on the floor so that you can spend however much time you want gazing up at the impressive vault and statue of Buddha. The meditating is not facilitated or guided, so you’re on your own for as much or as little time as you’d like.

Our driver and guide, Napi, was very solicitous of our every need, and was the one staff person at Amanjiwo who really stood out and conveyed the Aman ethos that has generated such fans worldwide.