I recently spent 14 nights at the 5 Aman resorts in Indonesia, as part of Aman’s impeccably executed “Bali & Beyond” package. I’ll give a quick summary of my perspective on each resort, and then dive into the details in subsequent posts for those who are interested. (Note: I booked this trip through Virtuoso agent David O, which made this an even better experience than it would have been, since we received an upgrade at every resort, received a rate that is lower than that published on the web, and received a number of additional Virtuoso inclusions—free breakfast throughout, and free spa treatments, and excursions.)

Overall experience: Superbly managed—from the moment we disembarked from the plane, we never had to think about a single logistical detail—Aman’s flotilla of airport staff secured our visas and luggage and within minutes we were en route to the first resort. And this wonderful arrival was mirrored by every subsequent logistical detail: each excursion, transfer, and request was handled without the slightest visible stress or strain. What Aman has done with its 5 Indonesia properties creates an incredibly seamless experience from a service perspective, while ensuring that each of the 5 resorts is a unique experience. So you get the best of both worlds: consistency in service with very site-specific experiences at each of the 5 properties.

I hadn’t considered making this trip until the Gallivanter’s Guide issue on Bali, and the postings many of you have made about these resorts (a special thanks to londonjetsetter, paul2, Ericka, and others who made such helpful postings), as I’d assumed that I’d “missed the boat” on these properties and that they would be considerably past their prime. Except in Amanwana’s case, that assumption was totally inaccurate. So a special note of thanks to those of you who here on Flyer Talk who have posted

There was a range in quality across the 5 sites, so my “grades” for the 5 resorts, all in all, are:

Amankila: A

High Points: This resort has it all, and is the star of the bunch, taking all the high points of the other properties and assimilating them into one glorious place. The hillside location overlooking the sea. East Bali, which feels so much less touristy than the rest, the architecture, the comfort and beauty of the rooms, the pools and beach experiences, the food, the excursions—knowing what I know now, if I had had to pick just one of these 5 Amans to experience, this would definitely be the one (with Amanusa a close second).

Low Points: Lack of a proper fitness center and spa.

Amanusa: A

High Points: The architecture—in my opinion the best designed public and private areas of these 5 resorts. The attention to detail. The freshest rooms of any of the 5 resorts—you simply cannot believe that the rooms are less than a year old, let alone nearly 20—they have done an amazing job of keeping the place up to date and in perfect condition, such that it was the most polished and luxurious of the 5 resorts, in terms of its feel and delivery of service. The best beach club experience I have ever had. And the large pool is dramatic and has terrific service.

Low Points: Lack of a proper fitness center and spa. The location is perhaps less thrilling than that of the other Amans . . . but the views over the golf course with the ocean in the distance are really beautiful nonetheless.

Amandari: B+

High Points: The grounds with their plethora of Hindu shrines, pathways, and a massive banyan tree. The views over the pool to the gorge beyond. The gym and spa (Amandari is the only one of these 5 Amans that has a real fitness room and a dedicated spa building).

Low Points: The quality of sleep here is not great, given the tremendous amount of animal noise from the surrounding villages. From 1 am until dawn, a cacophony of roosters blares every 30 seconds or so. It’s so loud it’s comical . . . plus the frogs! It’s all very atmospheric, but doesn’t make for restful sleep. The rooms, even with their recent updating, feel just a bit tired.

Amanjiwo: B+

High Points: The location. The cultural experiences and excursions.

Low Points: Heavy burning of incense in all the public areas. Relentless, loud gamelan playing and singing at lunches and dinners. Staff less warm and friendly than at the other properties. Main building and guest rooms are just a hair’s breadth short of needing an updating.

Amanwana: C+

High Points: The superb staff and GM Kevin Brooke. Arriving by float plane. The underwater experiences.

Low Points: The shocking state of the accommodations, the freshwater pool, the “Music Pavilion,” and the “Jungle Cove Spa,” which are all in desperate need of a refurbishment.

That’s perhaps enough detail for most, but for those who are interested, I’ll provide more info below about each of the resorts, specifics about the rooms, the food, the excursions they provided, photos, etc.