Yes, I remember reading somewhere that this is a very very old term for any place (read desk/office) where some sort of "change" takes place. Over time, came to be used specifically in the context of a money changer's office. So yes, it is a bureau de change.

I will have a highly qualified linguist look up this term. As to origins, I suppose this is a relic of the early days of the British and French occupation in India.