Originally Posted by
bdemaria
Good bar choices .. For restaurants, you might consider the following.
Its a bit difficult to give directions, etc.. b/c of course Venice doesn't have street addresses, there are six districts and every building in a given district has a number, so you'll see the address San Marco 123, which means the building is somewhere in the district (sestiere) of San Marco. Usually it will be close to say San Marco 124 - but not always.
The key to eating well in Venice: avoid restaurants near Piazza San Marco (w/the exception of da Carla) and near the Rialto
Osteria da Carla - the ONLY decent (in fact its fabulous) restaurant close to Piazza San Marco, very small - has about 12 tables (maybe), reservations for dinner a must; Carla does the cooking upstairs Venice, Corte Contarina, San Marco 1535 (off the Frezzeria), Phone: 041 523 7855
Osteria Boccadoro, almost exclusively fish but certainly considered the "up and coming" place in town; Cannaregio 5405 in the Campo Widmann Phone: 041/521-1021
Osteria da Alberto, Cannaregio 5401 its on the Calle Giacinto Gallina - very close to the Church of San Giovanni and Paolo (Phone: 041/523-8153); known as having the best scampi in town, does show up in a lot of guide books these days but still excellent food
Il Refalo [Santa Croce 1459] is particularly nice, it is owned by the same family that owns Da Fiore (considered one of the best elite restaurants in Venice); fascinating to sit outside for a casual dinner and watch Venetians live their lives; tel: 041-524-0016; located behind the church of S. Giacomo da l’Orio
Sandwiches: the list begins and ends with Bar Nomboli, San Polo, 2717, on the Rio Terra di Nomboli (and very close to the Frari church) its owned by Alberto and Mirella who have devoted their life to creating unusual sandwiches; all of which have special names (including of course the Alberto and Mirella). Look on your map for the Casa Goldoni, when you get to the Casa Goldoni and are facing the courtyard, turn to your left and continue on that calle, Nomboli will be on the left hand corner.
Thank you so much for your inside tips, which unfortunately I wasn't able to read until we got back but which will come in very handy when we make another trip in June.
We ate and drank well away from the two tourist areas you mentioned and found some excellent choices at quite reasonable prices.
And, of course, Venice in January with the sun out and not many tourists was an absolute delight.
Regarding Cantina do Mori, we did indeed try it.
A fascinating place steeped in history although the prices were bang up to date.
€12 for two small glasses of wine, two pieces of cheese and two slices of salami.
It wouldn't have been so bad if service came with a smile but the lugubrious person behind the bar simply looked miserable and said nothing ( which was a bit embarrassing as we were the only people in there. )
Got the impression the place is just a tired old relic.