Best: ZRH. Not much can compete with Sprüngli... In fairness that one is just a chocolate stand (no, they don't have the hot cocoa there - alas!) but before security, there's a great little bakery, and if sweets just aren't your thing, there's also an entire supermarket there.
Runner-up: Legal Sea Foods (BOS, if I recall). Not cheap, but at least the price reflects the quality. Wish it was a little more isolated, though; I felt like I was sitting at the gate eating my dinner.
2nd runner-up: Cafeteria at KEF. (It has a name, but it's basically a cafeteria) Sprüngli and Legal's are not quaking in their boots, but for good basic food at a realistic price - and in a city where nothing else is priced reasonably, no less - this was a really pleasant surprise.
I usually fly coach, so an airport restaurant has to seriously goof up my dinner to make it worse than what I get on the plane. But for sheer pricing lunacy, CPH was way up there when I flew through there last year. There were no cheap options, not even pizza or a burger. Pizza was there, and burgers were there, but they weren't cheap either!