I think for me is the over-complication of food (shoulder of lamb sous-vide with a gastrique of blood orange infused with lemongrass candy served with a manchego cheese and port wine reduction foam served with pea shoots in a dashi-kombu broth accompanied by a truffle and champagne vinaegrette). This then leads to every other chef copying said Frankenstein dish and charging outrageous sums of money for it.
However, a good "foam" and a well deconstructed dish can be very satisfying in the right hands. Sadly, there are too few of those "right" hands in the kitchens.