2 May Pilgrimage for the non-religious

We had tried to find accommodation around (or rather) south of Lourdes for the previous night but were greeted with an universal "complet". Getting into town, we found that the Knights of Malta were here for a 4 day pilgrimage. The calendar of Catholic groups visiting the site is constant and somewhat staggering. Lourdes is said to have the highest number of hotel rooms in France outside of Paris.

The street leading down to the holy site is a souk for religious items, and of course there were many of what appeared to be able-bodied young persons preying on the good will of pilgrims. Miraculously after crossing the river, all commercialism and panhandling disappeared. The most popular being containers to take home holy water in. The PoA is culturally Catholic so purchased some shaped in the form of the Virgin to give to family.

PoA found the whole Lourdes scene very moving and uplifting, with pilgrims from all over the Catholic world coming to visit. The Knights of Malta's members had brought infirm to visit, as did small private parties. You also found pilgrims - most healthy and able-bodied - from all over Europe arriving here on bus tours, The highlight (there are at least 3 basilicas/cathdedrals on site - a large modern one being underground) is the grotto where you find lines of people coming to visit, wiping away the moisture from the cave the Virgin appeared to Bernardette. We were rather suspicious whether all the copious amounts of water purportedly issuing from the springs was in fact 100% spring water, but it's hope and faith that counts.


Knights of Malta in front of the Basilica of the Rosary. The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception is on top (yes they're stacked on top of each other).



Grotto at Lourdes

Heading back to Oloron Ste. Marie, we had to find the Lindt chocolate factory. There's been a chocolate industry here for quite a long time though I'm not sure if Lindt was the original operator or not. There's no tour but the locals (judging from the deparment. nos. on license plates) come here to buy Lindt chocolate in bulk and at quite a savings over retail prices.

Dinner was in the hotel restaurant of some adjacent town. The highlight of my meal (the main course wasn't particularly memorable for it's not-so-good bouef) was Garbure which is a vegetable soup particular to this part of Bearn and the Pays Basque. Beans and cabbage are must-haves but you can use any vegetable you like otherwise.