Euskadi!
And Venice. Frankfurt too.
Took this trip way back in April and May of this year but I thought I’d post my first TR in many years. Having figured picture embedding knowledge, there will be pictures as I upload and link them so check back!
This trip began when I saw that LH was resuming 3 CoS flights to YVR and the ANA award availability site showed that while BC was all gone, FC was readily available! Few minutes later and the Princess of Austria (PoA) and myself had FC tickets to Bilbo burning up the few US miles that we had.
The original plan was to travel around Euskadi (a.k.a. the traditional Basque lands as named by the Basque nationalist movement) . Sometime between ticketing and travelling, the PoA saw a picture of the Hilton Molino Stucky’s pool in Venice and wanted to stay there, so our trip was duly altered at only the cost of airport fees (had to remind US staff of that though).
Days before leaving YVR, we noticed that there was snow in the Pyrenees so we decided to switch the trip to counterclockwise hoping to get good weather.
24 April 2009
Had dropped of the PoA at her work place just across the north arm of the Fraser from YVR earlier that day. My uncle picked us up and dropped us off at YVR. Uneventful and quite check in as we were either late of early. Off to the AC lounge (only *A lounge in the int’l area of YVR) for some drinks and a snack before boarding LH493. Boarded to take the 2nd row centre pair seats and were warmly welcomed by the FC crew who noted that the PoA was an Austrian citizen (seems that there were many Austrians in the flight crew that day). Multicourse dinner followed with champagne, variety of wine, dessert wine and schnapps. I fell asleep shortly after and must say the LH FC seats are probably the best I’ve slept in, and this includes FC on AF, AA, BA, QF and CX). The PoA has experienced all the previous but AF and agreed. She is a stomach sleeper and found the seats wonderful to sleep in.
25 April
Nice breakfast and uneventful landing into FRA. Docked at one of the piers which was a long walk from the central terminal. We were determined to use the FCT and so proceeded to go landside, walked on the ground level and found the FCT. Rang the bell and an attendant came to get us. Impressions of the FCT? This is the only way to travel! They take care of everything and no waits at all in security. Kerbside to a drink in your hand at the lounge in 2-3 minutes if not less!
After liberating some toiletries and rubber duckies, we had a quick meal at the dining room. It was white asparagus season and one of the specials was
schnitzel und weiss spargl that the PoA loves, washed down with Gruner veltliner. Catering was by the Viennese “gourmet entertainment” outfit, Do & Co. God schnitzel but the PoA thinks her mother’s is better even if it’s made of pork.
As boarding time came, the LH attendant came to us, escorted us downstairs to the limo area and we were off on the very short drive to the a/c (parked at the nearest pier). The PoA was quite impressed that her bags (we were handcarrying on a 3 week trip) were not only carried up to the a/c for her but stowed away too. Quick flight to BIO which didn’t offer much of scenery as it was cloudy. The food was no longer interesting to us but was Italian in theme, promoted biodynamism or some such and featured basil in everything including the dessert. No view of the Pyrenees at all and heavy overcast and light rain arriving into BIO.
I heard read some travel article about the Basque lands (this was my 4th trip here) and the writer made a comment that it was so lush and green here because it rained so much. I only realized it this time as everything was so lush and green, almost tropical. Got out of the airport fast. This is one of the least commercial airports when you arrive. Exit the baggage/customs hall and you’re immediately dumped landside. Not even a tabac to stop at. Rented our car from Atesa (never resolved the difference in booked and charged rates) and got a Citroen C3 diesel which suited us fine. Drove to our hotel which was the Tryp Sondika. Their instructions proved a little wanting so it took us a while to find it. O.k. room if not a bit run down but the rates were right. I had actually misbooked the room but the front desk agent was very friendly and gave us the rate (it was very empty) booked.
Settled in and went to Bilbo over the mountains on the non-toll road and even found our way to the Guggenheim. Went to park in the old town (Zazpi kaleak in Euskara, Casco Viejo in Spanish) where the stalls have green and red lights to signal if they’re vacant or not. We need this in N. America. Walked around the old town visiting pintxo bars, eating pintxos and drinking the local white effervescent wine. Bought a road map (essential as we planned to take the minor roads). This particular one must be aimed at the nationalists as the names of all the minor towns are in Euskera only. That’s actually not a bad as will be explained later. Walked by a pelota court and even though it was apparently small with no seating for an audience, we discovered on our later trip that games here are televised on one of the two ETB stations (which is serving to spread revival of the basque language around).
Basque ham in the old town. The shop's bar was across the street
Getting out of the parking bay was a bit problematic when the machine ate our ticket. It’s a fairly common problem as an attendant came by to liberate it after a few minutes. Bilbo is certainly not easy to get around and some say that missing a turnoff may result in a 80km diversion. We only got to a toll tunnel which got us back to the hotel earlier.
26 April
After breakfast (join the Tryp’s frequent stayer programme and the 2nd breakfast is free), we set off on one of the small roads towards Donostia (better known as San Sebastian). First, we went to Bilbo again and spent an hour taking pictures of the museum. Frank Gehry used a titanium skin because it provides a warm glow which is important as it's often cloudy and gloomy here. There was some run or even a marathon that morning so we had some difficulty getting out of town.
Guggenheim Bilbo on a partly cloudy morning
The Spanish region is heavily industrialized compared to the French region and is nowhere as charming. Maybe it was because of the cloudy day but it was certainly bleak. One thing I noticed was, there were very few supermercados! It would appear that they’re either very well hidden or people bought food from small groceries and at markets. Power to them.
Cutting to the coast, we got to the town of Getaria which was the town that Magellan’s navigator - the man who bought the remaining crew and ship back from the epic RTW voyage – hailed from and returned to after the RTW voyage. A victim of the depletion of fisheries, the fishing fleet was tied up and where a fish market may once have been, you found many African immigrants selling various wares. We looked for lunch but realized fresh fish wasn’t going to be available today so we had a pintxo and left. One thing we noticed is that the drinks need to be well aerated in Euskadi (at least the provinces of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa) whether its for wine or for cider (reason for the latter later). So you see the bar tenders pouring wine into big tumblers from at least 15” up, if not higher. Shoulder height to waist was as low as we saw anyone pour.
Getaria harbour
Getting to the next town of Orio, we thought it was rather charming and stopped for lunch. We figured that a place where the staff were grilling fish on charcoal (or was it wood?) fire outside was good. We settled for the local steak (Chuleton which must be a rib cut) which was sold by weight. Not cheap, a bit boney and fatty but it was delicious.
Going onto Donostia, we had booked a rural agroturismo called Aristondo (the Basque government’s website offers a comprehensive listing of such establishments). Finding it, despite instructions was another matter. It actually only took us half hour and then going up a small little one lane country road, less than 10 minutes from Donostia, that we found it. A rural old Basque farmhouse, with 3 generations inhabitants that converted a barn to 4 comfortable guestrooms. As a plus, the owners had recently extended the roof of the barn to cover most of the big deck (wonderful view over the bay and town). Certainly nice given torrential rain. The farmer, friendly as he was, spoke to us in Spanish (what little I understood). His primary language may well have been Euskara. Greenhouse crops and a flock of free-range chickens is what he had.
The Aristondo agroturismo
After settling in, we drove to the Parte Zaharra (parte vieja) or old quarter in Donostia and walked through the few streets there (very modern otherwise). Hit the pintxo bars again and found the best, wine wise, at the inner SE corner of the Konstituzio plaza. Try any of Alna (Burgos) wines. They’re the best we tried.
27 April
The Basque eat late so breakfast didn’t come until 9 (typical time). Fortunately we had a good sleep. Food isn’t the highlight in Spain and the breakfast consisted of some butter and jam (all packaged) served with package toast and buns. You don’t have to imagine what that was like. Coffee was o.k.
If you have read Salt or Cod of Basque History of the World, interrelated and written by Mark Kurlansky, you’ll know that salted cod is a staple of the Basque and it is believed the Basque found the new world cod fishing grounds and were fishing it long before Columbus came along on his voyage of discovery (aided by the Basque who crewed and outfitted his ships, let alone provided his navigators). Early European adventurers into the new world write that natives in Quebec and Newfoundland knew the basque word for salt cod. At any rate, one of the regional specialty meals (from January to May) served at sagardotegis is is an omelet of salt cod, followed by a fillet of salt cod, then the steak, and finally cheese with jam (cherry, I think), all washed down with lots of cider. The Basque have apparently been making cider for millennia and claim to have spread the knowledge to the French (Normans at least) and beyond. It's claimed Basque sailors would take 2 gallons of cider per man per day when they sailed. Not only was it something to drink but it would provide vitamin C and prevent scurvy.
We went to Astigarraga a short way out of Donostia which is the centre of the cider making area. Unfortunately being a Monday, everything was closed. Discouraged, we headed to the French border and the border town of Hondarribia. The PoA had come here on her tour of Europe as a young woman and stayed her a few days. She could never find it since as she had known it as Fuenterrabia Basque nationalism has certainly taken off after the demise of Franco and many town names in the region have the names in Spanish or French in the respective areas, and the alternate name in the local language (as per E.U. dictate) which would be Euskara. On the smaller roads, you’ll find the names only in Euskara if it wasn’t made so by the French or Spanish name being painted over. Most travelers to the area know to know the names in Euskara as well as the local language. As one guide book writer puts it, the locals really want you to learn their language and help you by starting with the town names.
The independence movement lives
At the Hondarribia waterfront, we found an unlikely sagardotegi that was serving the meal. We ordered, and were pointed towards the big barrels of cider in the tavern. A kindly American working in the area show us what txotx is. What you do it open the small faucet (located high up) and pour it into your glass held as low as you can. The splashing aerates the cider which releases the CO2 in the cider, which is still otherwise. Imagine an all-you-can-drink tavern at home! The food was delicious. The PoA isn’t one for salted foods - especially fish – but found the bacalao (salt cod) omelette and bacalao filet was very tasty, as was the steak (again, a chuleton).
Txotx!
The town is certainly a picturesque place and has a fortified hilltop old town. After going to Higer birua, the NE corner of Spain, we drove over the spine of a local mountain, stopping to see a herd of the Basque pony, the Pottok (you’ll see pictograms of them in prehistoric caves) we returned to Donostia via Pasai Donibane. The small old village hugs the cliff and there’s only a one lane road through the old town, with a traffic light because it’s only one lane wide and so traffic alternates. Buildings on either side back up to the water or to the cliff. There’sa small boat building museum that still builds the old open Basque boats. This town built, outfiited and crewed the 3 ships Columbus used on his expedition, and the Marquis of Lafayette spent several weeks here before heading off to the new world and causing problems for his country’s enemy.
Gates of Hondarribia
Street in Hondarribia
Pottok mare and foal
Only street in Pasai Donibane
Coming Next: Araba and La Rioja.