Inspired by a thread about the use of olive oil on Electric Razor Rap, I set out to explain the conundrum that exists when combining the question of when one should shave and whether or what products one should use before and after the shave. I hope this helps to clarify the situation.

The reason most manufacturers recommend against experimenting with practically anything is what I call the "Idiot Factor". People will go crazy and do God knows what and then complain they had a bad rash or their shaver exploded.

Many of the shave oil products might actually contain olive oil. I tried Jojoba and it worked just fine. There is also a difference whether the oil is used to lube the blade or whether it is used on the face.

The idea that olive oil would dull the blade, no matter how it is used, is very strange. I will say that it cannot have anything to do with microscopic particles suspended in the oil because the whiskers the blade cuts are much thicker than any particles in the oil. Blades are often sharpened with oil or water (in addition to stones, of course) to actually give a more even sharpening and to suspend particles or wash them away, depending on the stage of the sharpening process. Oil will also help to prevent oxidation of the blade. Some knives, scissors and razor blades will receive a thin coat of oil for storage. Some wet razor blade freaks advocate to immerse the entire blade in mineral or olive oil while it is not in use. Oxidation comes from water and oxygen. A blade fully immersed in oil will get neither. For wet shaving oxidation is given as one of the primary reasons for blade dulling, more so than abrasion from actually cutting the facial hair. There is no reason this should be different with electric shavers. It's a blade made of metal and subject to the same phenomena.

The idea of lubricating the skin to ensure a better glide probably doesn't need any explanation. The trick is to find just the right amount to give better glide instead of more drag and more gunk (another reason shaver mfrs are against the use of oils and pre-shaves). More gunk means higher friction thus more heat and blade abuse. But just a little bit of oil on the skin and on the blade will not create enough gunk and allow for a faster shave with less friction. Faster shave means less run time, means less blade abrasion, means better shaves for a longer time period. Obviously, better shaves for a longer time period is not in your interest when you are in the business of selling replacement blades and foils. Providing warranty on gunked up shavers where users have gone overboard is not in the manufacturers' interest, either. Hence their recommendation.

So those who say one should follow the manufacturers recommendation are only half right. If one has not enough common sense to see these things, it is a good idea to follow the recommendations. If one is critical enough, one will ask the "cui bono" question (who profits?) before heeding the recommendation.

Now, if the foil is really smooth and the user has a very clean and dry face there will also be minimal friction. That is perhaps easier to achieve than choosing the right lubricating substrate and applying it correctly.

This also explains the pre or post shower question where it is recommended to either shave before showering (but after cleaning the face) or to wait 15 minutes after showering. The problem of shaving after the shower is that the water will not only make the hair swell and make it soft, thus harder to grab by the foil, but it will also make the skin swell temporarily, so less of the hair stands out. It is a similar puffy skin effect as after getting up (see the recommendation on waiting 15 minutes after getting up). Moreover, the continued warmth of the shower opens the pores and makes the skin's natural oils come to the surface. This can create too much drag (but is good for wet shaving) and is the reason why moisturizing is so important.

Pre-shaves like the now elusive Lectric Ultra Gel or even the liquid versions contain alcohol and other astringent liquids. The idea is to a) disinfect the skin before shaving because bacteria on the skin can easily get into the skin and cause redness (mini inflammations), b) work as an astringent. The astringent will contract the skin around the whisker. The whisker will be more exposed and standing up better, thus easier to grasp. Rubbing with the fingertips against the grain and a bit of slapping can enhance that effect. The pre-shaves are meant to be used sparingly and supposed to be used only after they are completely dried. Just don't wait too long or the astringent effect is gone. I would say the most benefit can be had when you use such a pre-shave lotion if you decide to shave BEFORE showering. It can "wake up" your skin and give you a clean face without adding too much moisture like you might get from a full face wash.

Exfoliation of the skin be it with a sugar scrub, an exfoliating gel or a wash cloth is also recommended for the closest shave. In theory, exfoliation before shaving should help against ingrown hairs. Exfoliating daily might be too much of a good thing, which is why wet shaving daily often creates so much irritations among those who must shave daily. But exfoliating for example twice a week makes sense.

Moisturizing and disinfecting after the shave is equally a good habit. The skin needs to get back some of its oils and moisture to protect it and it is a good idea to disinfect again after the shave. Since alcohol is usually used as a disinfectant and alcohol is also an astringent (like menthol or campher) it will close the pores and help prevent any impurities from settling in the still open pores. So a quick rinse (first luke warm to get any leftover pre-shave lotion and any small hair particles off, then cold water to close the pores) after a dry shave makes sense and should be followed by the application of an after shave balm instead of a non-moisturizing after shave.

Cheers,

Till