Interesting article. Mirrored my experience in the old-school restaurants. I found that they don't care much about couples table. They'd rather spend energy on people with business accounts, larger groups. I had pretty disappointing meal in Le Bernadin. Per Se is OK cause we're with a large group. I now only do wine pairing in smaller restaurants. Like Momofuku Ko, had very interesting wine tasting menu (which includes beer) and paired amazingly with food.