Seeing it by ourselves without the pressure of a group or set schedule is the way we enjoy it the most. Rented R.V.'s, or cars. B&B's are super! The Alaskan Milepost is essential--it can be purchased at any bookstore. The shoulder seasons of early and late summer are great. If you do a "tour" you will see some of Alaska, but miss so much more or what is there. We did do a weeks cruise on the "Universe Explorer" which stopped at ports you can't drive to. The Alaska State Ferry System is also great. One of the best experiences was observing brown bears at Katmai National Park.