Thanks to everyone for their tips and advice. I just returned from my week in Bulgaria and wanted to share some of the highlights and observations. I truly enjoyed this country, especially the people and the food. I did not have much time to explore the more culturally significant sites but I did get to wander some of the old streets in Sofia as well as explore the lovely town of Smolyan. My expenses were to be covered by the client and they organized all transportation and accommodations.

SOF airport felt very new and bright and was easily negotiated. On the taxi in after landing there were numerous Soviet era aircraft visible, most of which looked like they hadn’t been flown in the past 20 years. It almost felt like a museum. Upon departure I was invited to the Business Lounge, of which I think there are two. I was travelling with LH but I think anyone in possession of a J or F BP can use the lounges. I did have a conversation with a fellow traveler who was taken to Terminal 1. Do not make this mistake as the penalty was steep in both time and taxi fare.

I spent three nights in Smolyan at the Hotel Kiparis. It was nice and the rooms were on the large side. There were several hotels in the town but the client swore that this was the best. Smolyan sits in the heart of the Rhodopi Mountains and is a very picturesque town. The surrounding peaks climb to 2100 meters and the forests are mainly pines. The architecture reminded me of Northern Italy. My favorite restaurant was Café Venus. The superb cuisine was highlighted by Shopska Salad (cucumbers, tomatoes and local feta cheese) ‘Milk’ Salad (think tzatziki, only thicker) patatnik (potato pancake) and Tarator soup (a cool cucumber and yogurt soup). The Bulgarian wines (a chardonnay/sauvignon blanc blend in this case) were delicious and refreshing. I also had a terrific pizza here for lunch one day. There were several bars/pubs in this town. I did not enjoy the national drink of Rakia but I did enjoy the lagers with Zagorka and Kamenitza being my favorites.

We stayed at the Hotel Crystal Palace in Sofia and once again the client said that it was the best in Sofia. I have nothing to compare it to, but it was very nice. Great staff and amenities and located in a great location close to the National Cathedral and ‘Doctor’ Park. The surrounding neighborhood was quaint with restaurants, bars and old stone streets. Again, the cuisine was delicious and I would highly recommend two of the restaurants where we dined; Restaurant Chepishev in the Boyan neighborhood and ‘Under the Linden Trees’ near downtown. Chepishev has a commanding view of the entire city and they had their own take on the dishes I listed above. Service was impeccable as we dined on the outdoor terrace. They also feature the largest whisky collection in all of Bulgaria. The Linden Tree restaurant was in a beautiful old hunting lodge. The food here was also great but the highlight was the traditional Bulgarian folk music. I saw several instruments that I have never seen before. The Club/Bar scene in Sofia is very active. We visited several piano bars as well as the ultra chic ‘Planet’ club. I am not much for Trance or Techno music but it seemed to be everywhere. They are also stuck on the music of the late 80’s and early 90’s. Maybe that has to do with the Wall coming down and the end of the communist era?

While Sofia is beautiful and feels much more manageable than say Prague, it still has a ways to go. It felt a little dirty and many buildings and parks were in disrepair. But that is easily addressed, and as the economy continues to grow so will the beauty of this city and its people. The vibe here reminded me of the transition in Ireland/Dublin during the late 90’s as their economy took off. It feels like things are happening fast! I can’t wait to go back.