Kam Air, the first privately-owned Afghan airline, now flies regularly from Dubai to Kabul, as well as within the country. I flew roundtrip in May, and the service was quite good on a 767 that appeared to be an old United aircraft, on board meal was excellent in coach (on a 3+ hour flight!), and both ways the flights were on time. Fellow passengers were largely aid workers and military contractors. The fare was $525 roundtrip, and had to be purchased through one of the three US travel agents listed on the website. Kam Air uses the older Dubai terminal, and you couldn't check luggage through to Kabul (as of last May - perhaps it's changed by now), so you have to retrieve it from your arriving flight at the new terminal, clear customs, transport to the other terminal, and repeat.

I think Azerbaijani Air and Air India might also fly to Kabul, also United Nations Humanitarian Air Services but you have to be an aid worker or similar for the latter. Great Game Travel out of the UK is doing adventure travel tours for the general public now. It's a wonderful country with incredibly hospitable people and amazing sights to see. BUT, one must be very "security conscious," and avoid certain conflict areas. This year I couldn't safely travel over the Khyber Pass to Peshawar, Pakistan which I was able to do on my last visit in 2003.

Both of my trips were in connection with NGOs doing humanitarian aid. I'm eagerly looking forward to my next trip.