The Evolving Image of the Flight Attendant

A porcelain-skinned flight attendant applies crimson lipstick in a mirror. Behind her, another smooths her already perfect hair under her hat. Later, leather handbags tucked in their arms, flight attendants in chic, tailored burgundy dresses with flattering black belts strut down the jetbridge as if it were a catwalk. Next, we see the purser taking tickets in her green leather-gloved hand. This is the new Alitalia commercial, with style clearly the focus.

Alitalia is proud to have venerable Italian designer Ettore Bilotta creating a new look for their crews, and they are not alone in wanting to show off a fashionable image. Airlines like Qantas announced a new uniform this past April, designed by Paris-based Australian designer Martin Grant, while Delta has selected Zac Posen to create its next uniform. It seems airlines around the globe are scrambling to snag fashion heavy-hitters who are willing to create the new image to represent them.

It’s interesting to see airlines develop a sudden and urgent desire to revamp their image right now, especially US carriers, after so many years of dowdy slacks, ugly vests, and formless blazers. It’s a huge relief to those of us having to wear the stuff, for sure. But image does play a large part in how passengers see airlines, and travel in general. Conversely, the way the public views flying also has influenced companies’ images.

Take the 1930s and the advent of air travel. Ellen Church and the first “sky girls” dressed as (and also happened to be) nurses in order to assuage the fears of skittish travelers, for whom flight was a completely new concept. The following two decades saw smart, military-influenced suits.

Naturally, things got a little crazy in the 60s. TWA and British Airways had disposable paper dresses designed to be worn during service, and were themed to match the destination and meal service. Former flight attendant April Pagano, who signed on with Eastern in 1969, says that her initial uniform of hot pants and shiny white boots (“a la Nancy Sinatra,” she says), was not practical or popular – with those wearing it, anyway. “It didn’t last long – not many wore them unless you wanted to be an object to perverts.” She also had a jumpsuit, which “was difficult to manage, especially when you needed to ‘go’.” But it was Braniff who took the psychedelic lead with Pucci’s trademark patterned, vividly colored pantsuits. And, of course, the space helmet to complete the look, as well as to protect massive hairstyles from the elements. (These were short-lived, however, as they cracked easily in the overhead bins.) Braniff completed the already wild experience by creating “The Air Strip” – a series of uniform pieces to be removed at specific times during the flight. Watch the video here, complete with backing cheesy striptease soundtrack. As the world was embracing the free love era, the stewardess was being designed to be its free-wheeling mascot, using the allure of gorgeous young single stews to attract the eye of gentleman travelers.

Of course, the hyper-sexualization of the position during the 60s saw a feminist backlash in the 70s. Horrifying ads like National Airlines’ “Fly Me” campaign, most prominently featuring a stewardess named Cheryl promising to “fly you like you’ve never been flown before”, were commonplace. In 1972 a group known as Stewardesses For Women’s Rights (SFWR) was formed to fight discrimination and sexism in the industry. Despite disbanding in the late 70s, the effects of their activism have made a lasting impact – not only in the airline industry, but for feminism in general. I’d kill to wear some of those old uniforms, but thanks to SWFR, I will never have to experience a hot pants wedgie on the job (among many other things).

The late 70s through the early 2000s were a drab, depressing time in fashion for airlines and, really, fashion in general – it was the dawn of the age of beige. The industry was de-sexualizing its image, which was ultimately a good thing, of course – but with it came shapeless, styleless workwear made to emphasize the flight attendant’s role as safety professional. While it is absolutely the focus of the profession, and I’ve got no desire to experience carving chateaubriand in the aisle while wearing moon boots and a paisley bra (okay, maybe just once), I would similarly loathe to wear the masculine, function-over-form uniforms of those days ever again.

It only took sixty years, but airlines have begun figuring it out – crews need not be made to be “trolly dollies”, nor should we look like diner waitresses or bellhops. Crews and passengers alike seem to be excited about a return to glamour in air travel, starting with what we wear. My new uniform is much more form-fitting and stylish, although – a little insider secret – rarely does anyone love their own airline’s uniform. I was on line at the airport getting a coffee behind an Etihad flight attendant the other day, and I was nearly starstruck. I would die to wear that warm brown tailored suit, fine leather gloves, and bold purple scarves, also designed by Bilotta.

Now that I think of it, this may be the golden age of travel after all. (San Francisco Airport’s International Terminal is currently displaying a full complement of airline uniforms through the ages in an exhibit, “Fashion In Flight”, until January of 2017. Of course, linger a while and you’ll see working crews from around the globe modeling their current ones. Also, check out Cliff Muskiet’s amazing uniform collection online at uniformfreak.com.)

[Photo: Wall Street Journal]